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Monolith Rocks
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Sex and Chocolate with a Cherry on Top (aka S&C Direct) 
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Venus Rising 

Sex & Chocolate 

Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+

   
Type:  Boulder
Consensus:  Hueco: V6-7 Font: 7A+ [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 3,017
Submitted By: Brian Runnells on Mar 24, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Tony B. styling the beginning of Sex and Chocolate...

Description 

Start on the face right of the arete and make your way to the slopey ledge at 3/4 height using invisible crimps and frictionless slopers. From here traverse right and off.


Location 

If you are facing the Venus rising boulder, continue on hiking trail for 50 feet and go right towards the lake past easy problems on the right. Angle around the backside of these boulders you pass and go down the hill hugging the cliff line on your right. Sex & Chocolate should be on your right.


Protection 

Landing is pretty benign.



Photos of Sex & Chocolate Slideshow Add Photo
Cool shot, my headlamp was doing wild things. Photo: B. Fellenz
Cool shot, my headlamp was doing wild things. Phot...
A different take...
A different take...
Katie on S & C.
Katie on S & C.
Katie at the start.
Katie at the start.
Sex & Chocolate <br />Photo: Sarah B
Sex & Chocolate
Photo: Sarah B
RV getting after it.
RV getting after it.
Vince getting a little sex and chocolate.
Vince getting a little sex and chocolate.
Rumors are true, Rhoads went bouldering(only after we went rope climbing).  Here he gets some Sex and Chocolate.
Rumors are true, Rhoads went bouldering(only after...
Remo guns for the Jug.
Remo guns for the Jug.
The cleaning crew on the direct. <br />Photo: Vince
The cleaning crew on the direct.
Photo: Vince
Hiking my foot for the throw.
Hiking my foot for the throw.
Kelsen channeling Louie Armstrong.
Kelsen channeling Louie Armstrong.
Sex & Chocolate ascends  using the arete and crimps on the face to dyno to the "slopey" break.
BETA PHOTO: Sex & Chocolate ascends using the arete and crimp...
Photo: Sarah B
Photo: Sarah B
Eyeing the crimp.
Eyeing the crimp.
RV, gettin some
RV, gettin some
Visualizing the send, but it will have to wait.
Visualizing the send, but it will have to wait.
Vinny...blows.
Vinny...blows.
Comments on Sex & Chocolate Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 22, 2011
By Paul Campbell
From: Sussex, WI
Jan 21, 2009

I'm throwing some star ratings onto the harder boulder problems because they wouldn't show up in the "Best Routes for You in this area" without a quality rating.

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Jun 12, 2009
rating: V7 7A+

The dyno move is so far. I finally made a couple good goes, but man that is a big move.

By Tradoholic
Jul 2, 2009

Got on this thing to day, seemed nice but the friction was no good in the mild temps. A colder day would be much better.
Traverse right? I say "Sex and Chocolate Direct". I guess I'll have to do the bottom first though, eh?

By SteveSchultz
Jul 3, 2009

I've been saying the same thing for years rhoads. Direct looks doable. there are holds. we should throw a rope over it someday.

By Paul Jones
From: Madison, WI
Jul 11, 2009

Best, Hardest problem I ever did at The Lake. Brought my 70 year old parents there one year and did it for them. One of the most beautiful little areas in the park. Always feels special to be there.

By SteveSchultz
Oct 26, 2009

Big credit due to both Gabe and Aaron for sending this rig this past Saturday!! Nice work!!

By Dobbe
Oct 27, 2009

Gabe and Aaron had great beta. This thing always felt weird and today no problem.

By Langlois
From: NYC
Oct 27, 2009

Nice work! You'll have to share the beta on Saturday so Seth and I can embarrass ourselves

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Nov 18, 2009
rating: V7 7A+

If you enjoy bouldering at the Lake, than this problem is a must try- great problem! I was going to go for the direct, but no spotter and a dirty head-wall did not spark confidence. A little bit of cleaning and I think the line will go.

By SteveSchultz
Nov 18, 2009

Nice Remo! This thing is getting worked this year!!

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Nov 21, 2009
rating: V7 7A+

So we went up and cleaned off the upper part of S&C but failed to send. Both sides of the arete are in play, but the moves are tricky and high off the deck. Bring the spotters and all the pads you can round up.

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Mar 16, 2010
rating: V7 7A+

Committed to the direct today ground up. Stuck the crux on S&C, traversed right and started going up. Got spooked out when I looked down and noticed how far the ground was and how small Vince looked. 2 1/2 pads is not enough for a landing zone. The direct is for real, bring all the pads!

By Tradoholic
Mar 17, 2010

No shit Remo!

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Mar 17, 2010

silly... 2 and a half pads might as well be 2 and a half rocks from up there. lol. yikes

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Mar 18, 2010
rating: V7 7A+

Tried the direct today and fell at the lip. Big, big fall, not fun. Then tried on TR, pumped out and fell at lip. Next time, so frustrated!

By SteveSchultz
Mar 18, 2010

DAMN Remo! That's a big fall...

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Mar 18, 2010

wow. ballsy. glad you're ok man!

By Paul Dieterle
From: Pasadena, CA
Mar 18, 2010

YEAH REMO!!!

By Langlois
From: NYC
Mar 21, 2010

Remo sent the direct today. Free no rope. Epic!

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Mar 21, 2010

Wow Remo, nicely done!!!

By Tony Brengosz
May 2, 2010
rating: V5-6 6C+

The right exit is much scarier than the left exit.

By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 22, 2011

Eric Zschiesche on the FA, and he was fired up on the line, the send, and the Oldstyles we were putting down as well... I don't remember them well, but I know they were the good old days... Summer of 99.