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 ADVANCED
Many Pines Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Algae T 
Anemia T,TR 
Anemic Ladder T,TR 
Asleep in a Fuk-nes Dream TR 
Black Rib T 
Broken Ladder TR 
Callipigeanous Crack T,TR 
Callipigeanous Direct T 
Double Clutch (AKA Chickens Don't Fly) T 
Flatus T 
Jamboree T,TR 
Kamikaze T,TR 
Man and Superman T,TR 
Michael's Project T,TR 
No Trump T 
Ostentation T,TR 
Ottobahn T,TR 
Peter's Project T,TR 
Peter's Project Right Side T,TR 
Sewing Machine T,TR 
Superman T,TR 
V8 T,TR 

Sewing Machine 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 766
Submitted By: Doug Hemken on Jul 7, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Steve stems

Description 

"An unusual climb (for Devil's Lake). One's legs tire out before one's arms, that is if both legs and arms do not give out together" (Smith & Zimmerman, 1970).

As a wide stemming/chimneying problem, this is harder if you are shorter. Tell yourself you are practicing for Devil's Tower.

Location 

The stem box to the left of "Man & Superman."

Protection 

Standard rack


Photos of Sewing Machine Slideshow Add Photo
Bryan K. leads "Sewing Machine".  Looked...
Bryan K. leads "Sewing Machine". Looked...

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By Gokul
Apr 19, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

The gear is sparse in the middle section. Ball nuts - for the left seam - would be handy. Stoppers in this crack are only good for a downward pull, so maybe a cam lower down on the route will help with that.
By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Aug 23, 2015
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I wouldn't call it PG13 if you have Ball Nuts, but it's not a 5.6 for the 5.6 leader.
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Aug 25, 2015

I'm not sure I know how to characterize a "5.6 leader." Does this mean someone whose gymnastic limit is 5.6 and has never climbed before? Someone who regularly leads 5.6s, but not 5.7s?

"Sewing Machine" is not easy to protect, and it requires climbing skills not usually needed at the Lake. Those are two separate issues.
By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Aug 26, 2015
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I mean that it's not a good choice for a leader whose limit is leading 5.6. :-)
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