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Seventh Sojourn 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 340'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Brian Komen and Mark Thomas (1990)
Page Views: 1,178
Submitted By: Bill Lawry on Aug 31, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: View from the base of The WatchTower. The first p...

Description 

Overall, Seventh Sojourn has mostly good rock and adequate protection. In my experience, pitch 2 is the pitch that stands out: heady traverse to small pro followed by enjoyable steep climbing. The guide "Sandia Rock" indicates that pitch 3 is the crux pitch (5.9).

P1 (5.7 to 5.7+): Face and crack climbing mostly straight up the major weakness to a bolted belay just after a chimney formation - which can be avoided by staying left.

P2 (5.9, crux pitch): Traverse right several moves and then up as needed to get some small pro (~1/3 inch) near the base of the flake. Then ascend the flake followed by climbing a left trending dihedral above the belay to a bolted anchor.

P3 (5.7-5.8): Traverse left, then up and right, then up past a bolt (may be difficult to see). Continue mostly straight up until finding a short vertical crack above a small horizontal ledge: gear anchor from about 1/2 to 1 1/2 inches (0.5 to #1 camalots).

P4 (5.8): Seventh Sojourn proper continues mostly straight up and through a small chimney/roof and then to the top. Gear anchor.

If the leader runs out the start of the 3rd pitch a bit then the second can skip the vegetated traverse and instead get immediately into some enjoyable terrain (5.9?) - i.e., climb up while trending left from the belay through small features and a couple shallow cracks before resuming pitch 3 proper.

At the top of pitch 3 and from the described gear anchor, the bolt visible up and left about 15 feet protects a few 5.10a moves of a p4 variation which then continues up past the 1st bolted anchor for the rap of The WatchTower.


Location 

The start of the route is found after rapping down The WatchTower. Much of Seventh Sojourn can be previewed during the raps.


Protection 

Anchors from bottom to top are bolts, bolts, gear, and a couple large trees about 20 feet back from cliff top. Standard rack to 2 1/2 inches. Cams or slider nuts less than 1/2 inch useful.



Photos of Seventh Sojourn Slideshow Add Photo
Looking directly up from the top of pitch 2 of Seventh Sojourn.  Pitch 3 proper traverses quite a bit left of the picture before starting up.
BETA PHOTO: Looking directly up from the top of pitch 2 of Sev...
Chuck after the traverse climbers right from p2 belay.
Chuck after the traverse climbers right from p2 be...
Comments on Seventh Sojourn Add Comment
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By Paul Davidson
Jun 5, 2008

Running pitches 1 & 2 together makes for a great pitch.
Just runner out (or skip) the first pitch bolt belay to avoid drag.

By Robin
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jun 8, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

P1 5.7 maybe 5.7+. Crux for me was a little chimney/dihedral thing right before the anchor. It looks really weird, especially after all the juggy cracky climbing below, but I chimneyed it with my back facing west and it felt very secure.

P2 5.9 definitely the crux pitch. Exactly as described in the route description. Gear is a bit weird in the left trending dihedral, which is also the crux. Small cams useful here.

P3 57/5.8 ish. Pretty mellow except for a little step across right from the right trending crack system to just below the bolt. Don't go too high. You will traverse about 10 feet below a spot where the flake/crack has a small wide section. The traverse is also at approximately a place to put a nice solid #1. The bolt is very nicely colored almost exactly like the rock and I didn't see it until I was a couple feet below it, but them again I am blind. I used 2 #1's and a .5 for the belay.

P4 5.8 for about 15 feet moving straight up from the belay and for a very short traverse left. After that it becomes easy climbing on blocks. Unlike many Sandia routes, this segment is not particularly loose.

If you should "decide" to leave all the nuts at home for this one, make sure you have like 15 small cams or so (which luckily enough we did). There are several places where nuts would have been preferable.

By Will Vining
Sep 4, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

This is a good route with great rock! Fun climbing on cracks and flakes in the first half gives way to cool face climbing in the second half. I'm not sure if I went the 'right' way on pitch three. Going up and trending left directly from the anchor via some small flakes leads to a cool groove around the corner and good face climbing protected by small stoppers. The 5.10a finish provides just a bit more fun face climbing to top things off.

By Kerr Adams
From: Albuquerque, NM
Sep 4, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Fantastic route!

The fixed line and pitons at the top for the descent is still in great condition. Thanks Marc!

Not to be rude to Robin, but the gear on P2 is not at all tricky. Super fun pitch! The moves off of the belay for P2 look tricky, but don't worry, they aren't that bad.