Seven Year Itch 5.11a
| 963 page views
Good page?   |
BETA PHOTO: Hard to miss on approach due to all the bolts. Vie...
Add Photo  Printer View
Description Slab your way past a couple of bolts to a small overlap/roof. Make a long move and mantel to a stance. Continue up the face past a bulge on to the top. Nice, long route for the Flakeview area.
Location Flakeview Area...just to the right of Gunboat Diplomacy.
Protection Bolts and rap anchors at the top.
Garrett DeBruin on Seven Year Itch with Dave Colem...
| | |
| Comments on Seven Year Itch |
|
By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Oct 18, 2011
| Thought the crux was down low unlike the description in the book being in the middle. Most of the upper section has very thin crimps. Try not to pop them while climbing. |
By Matt Westlake
Oct 18, 2011
rating: 5.11a
| Tom - I suspect at some point in the future a sufficient number of these tiny flakes will have been to be pried free to make this thing quite a bit harder. Reminds me of a crimpy gym climb. Still, with so many bolts it must attract a lot of traffic and I guess it has lasted this long... |
By sanz
From: Raleigh, NC
Nov 7, 2011
| Stellar crimpfest with good, balancey movement. Bring thin fingers gear to tame the runout between the third and fourth bolts. The crux is definitely down low, after that pretty close to Gunboat's level. Be careful on the belay - the first crux move is protected only by the first bolt, and falling on it with no slack will whip your shin right into a sharp ledge. I watched someone open his leg up pretty bad on it. |
By jlane
Jan 31, 2012
|
The route requires 2 ropes to get down. My partner and I had only a 70 meter rope. I lowered my partner down by using extra long slings, a 70 meter rope, TIED A KNOT IN MY END OF THE ROPE and even walked up the base of the climb to get him down. After I had led it and disassembled the anchor, I rapped down into a gully to the right WITH BOTH ENDS OF THE ROPE HAVING KNOTS IN THEM and was able to walk down. I do not recommend this, but if you do, PLEASE TIE KNOTS IN THE END OF THE ROPE. I only emphasize this due the recent accidents that have happened in the area.
Climb is awesome if you can handle pulling down on friable rock! |
By Trevor Shumaker
From: Escondido, CA
Sep 24, 2012
| It should be possible to rappel with one 60m rope by swinging left to the halfway anchors for Gunboat Diplomacy. We had two ropes, so rapped straight to the ground. When we climbed Gunboat, I noticed that each pitch is under 100 feet. |
By Austin Cooner
Jan 2, 2013
| we used a 70m to toprope, but just barely. got a little scared with the runouts, but im a wuss. |
|
RSS Feed
92 more...
Slideshow