Climb a crack on the southwest side of the dome. Chickenheads and other features lead to a wide crack with a slight overhang. Pulling through the crack is dirty and the crux. Once through the dirty crack, climb past a tree to a hand crack (second easier crux) and belay on gear. A large, detached boulder at the top provides a good anchor.
Descend by scrambling down the north side of the dome.
May 28, 2013
According to the guide, it shows the route heading right from the wider crack and back in the main crack at the tree. Climbing directly in the wide crack felt a bit stiff for 5.7. Dirty holds with lichen feet seemed to up the ante.
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 12, 2013
Wow, this is a loser of a route. Got on it because we were having trouble finding the long routes and then weather was coming in. It's easy climbing, but I felt like I was soloing 20' up. Chickenheads and sparse places to place gear (sometimes marginal placements).
If I were on it again, I would take my tricams again and three 0.5 (purple). If you have a set of C3s, you could also take them up.
For the rating, I agree that climbing that dirty, wide crack is a little stiff for 5.7, and I found it hard to protect - perhaps that's when I wanted the extra 0.5.
From: Denver, CO
Sep 21, 2013
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c
Agreed. The guidebook says go right at the wide crack. Problem is, there is no protection right. So I went up the wide crack instead. Which is indeed a little more stiff than 5.7. The hand-jams are dirty, and yes the pro at the wide crack is tricky (with all the dirt). The small crack above the wide crack is also another tough spot. It kind of fades away. Had to face climb to the right of that to get past that part.
I still thought it was a fun route though! I like the untouched dirty routes though. More of an adventure.