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Seven Sharp 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 377
Submitted By: Fremont Shields on Oct 14, 2007
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  • Description 

    This route starts near a hole in the talus base and below an obvious, right-trending corner that takes a 90 degree turn back to the left at half way to the anchors.

    This is an okay warmup, and it protects well. A single, wide piece 5" is optional near where the route jogs back to the left. The crux is the 30 feet section where it starts back left. This protects well with finger-sized cams and a large stopper. Near the top, find a jag in the crack for a nice stance and be a good leader and clip a double-length runner to a tough to see bolt over the lip of the overhang. This isn't really for your safety, but for your second. Then traverse an easy ledge straight left twenty feet to the anchors.

    This anchor is in good shape. Two 1/4" bolts and a modern 3/8" are the hardware. When I climbed this 10/13/07, I replaced the slings with a triple equalized set of rings on green 9mm cord. This route and others I spotted on the crag all had sling anchors, so it's not a bad idea to bring webbing to replace the south-facing bleached out slings you'll find. The anchors I found were mostly single rap rings and I added a ring in addition to the slings I replaced.

    DESCENT: !!!ROPE WARNING!!! Rappel 85 feet to ground. A 60m would reach fine, but tie ends if using a 50m. TOP ROPERS: You CANNOT toprope this climb with a single 50m cord and even a 60m would be close. I had a 70m and it only had 20 feet left when I was lowered due to the directionals I left for my second.


    Location 

    Rappel diagonally 85 feet to the ground. A single 50m might not make it, and the last bit is a slick slab.


    Protection 

    Single set, fingers to hand sized cams. Light set of stoppers.



    Comments on Seven Sharp Add Comment
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    By Jason Haas
    From: Broomfield, CO
    Oct 16, 2009

    Please be very careful when rappelling off this anchor. The post above (and Trout's book) says this is an 85ft rappel and that a 60meter rope works fine. I made this rap straight down the face (just left of The Viper) and I barely had any rope left on a 70meter. Maybe you can angle more right with a 60meter? I don't know... be careful.

    By slim
    Administrator
    Oct 16, 2009
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

    Good point, Jason. If I remember correctly, the ground drops away to the left. The route angles left as you go up, so you end up directly above the higher ground.

    By Rodger Raubach
    Mar 16, 2011
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

    The rock seems more compact and polished than some other South Platte formations, such as The Dome, and Squat Rock. This was a decent climb, but we didn't get to do any other routes that day--too darned HOT.