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set-up(s) for top-rope soloing?
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By NYClimber
From New York
Jun 27, 2012
Awesome slab climb right out of the water! Rogers ...
Thanks all for the good information...

I am going to have to look into this Traxion and a ascender.

FLAG
By NYClimber
From New York
Jun 27, 2012
Awesome slab climb right out of the water! Rogers ...
Aric Datesman wrote:
Late to the party, but FWIW I use a Minitrax for TR Solo. Works great, especially in conjunction with a Cinch since it can be rigged onto a loaded line should you fall. Found the Ushba and Kong Duck to feed just as well in my limited playing around with it, but stuck with the Minitrax since it was habit at that point. Also Lead Solo is a completely different ballgame, so throw all this out if that's where you're headed... In that case Joe Healey's method has worked for me, but may not work for you. Check RC if you want details on it.


Who's RC Aric?

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By Josh Olson
From madison, wisconsin
Jun 27, 2012
Looking at a 5.7 crack with Nick
Michael Urban wrote:
Who's RC Aric?


rockclimbing . com I do believe.

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By NYClimber
From New York
Jun 28, 2012
Awesome slab climb right out of the water! Rogers ...
Thanks - that's what I figured you meant afterwards!

PS This is the web site that I used to formulate the system that I currently tried....

ulrichprinz.de/alpin/equipment...

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By NYClimber
From New York
Jun 28, 2012
Awesome slab climb right out of the water! Rogers ...
Jake Jones wrote:
This is one of the main reasons I don't use a GriGri and knots. I like being able work moves without having to worry about pulling slack out, or clipping into pre-arranged knots. If everything, including your backup, feeds automatically hands free, then you can get on stuff that's at your limit and work it without worrying about falling before you can pull slack or clip the next knot. If I'm mock leading (headpointing) and trying to figure gear out and finding good stances to place, all the slack-pulling and knot-clipping is too much. To each his own. As long as you're safe and you're having fun, that's what's really important. Did you weight your rope, and if so, how did your GriGri2 feed? Did you have to manually pull slack?


Jake,
What is the advantage of using the Petzl Traxion vs. a 2nd Ascender on the 'back up rope' such as: ems.com/product/index.jsp?prod...

Wouldn't a 2nd ascender accomplish the same thing as the Traxion?

?

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By Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Jun 28, 2012
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after...
Michael Urban wrote:
Jake, What is the advantage of using the Petzl Traxion vs. a 2nd Ascender on the 'back up rope' such as: ems.com/product/index.jsp?prod... Wouldn't a 2nd ascender accomplish the same thing as the Traxion? ?


I use the Mini Traxion because it's smaller. No real advantage other than that. A handled ascender would work just as well, it's just a little more bulky. Also, the Mini Trax is a pulleyed device. Not sure that makes a difference though, as the regular ascenders feed pretty damned good to begin with provided the rope is weighted. I don't use handled ascenders for anything, although there's nothing wrong with them. I use a Petzl Basic for my chest harness belay. It's basically an Ascension ascender without the handle. I should post a picture, in case you don't know what one is, but I'm really lazy and it's early. Apologies.

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By NYClimber
From New York
Jun 28, 2012
Awesome slab climb right out of the water! Rogers ...
Thanks Jake,
yes i know what it is - thanks.

I have always used handled ascenders primarily b/c I used them when I was a caver to jug a fixed rope out of deep caves and the handle just seemed a bonus - I thought - tho I have never used a ascender such as yours - which yes - looks much more compact and such.

I was thinking in the terms of if I ever choose to do a big wall climb - I have always seen climbers jugging using handled ascenders - so I thought 'Better to buy 1 set of ascenders that might be dual function' perhaps?

I will look nto getting a mini Trax....and trying it out - b/c pulling that slack line thru the GriGri was a PITA, took time away from concentrating on climbing, and when I start doing harder routes I am really going to want to have both hands FREE to climb with as much as I can!

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By NYClimber
From New York
Jun 28, 2012
Awesome slab climb right out of the water! Rogers ...
PS I just found today that Petzl has recalled some of their new GriGri 2 units of which mine is one of - again!

I'm done buying their crap. From now on I'm buying only Black Diamond gear, or Clog. This is BS....

First the GriGri 1's were recalled - now some GriGri's 2's.

WTF?

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By Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Jun 28, 2012
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after...
Michael Urban wrote:
PS I just found today that Petzl has recalled some of their new GriGri 2 units of which mine is one of - again! I'm done buying their crap. From now on I'm buying only Black Diamond gear, or Clog. This is BS.... First the GriGri 1's were recalled - now some GriGri's 2's. WTF?


Not a big deal. Things get recalled all the time. It's impossible to conceive every possible scenario that gear may be put through, despite rigorous testing. Petzl is a pretty good company that makes good gear. Don't let this deter you from buying their stuff. Almost every company has had a recall of some sort on gear of some kind. Black Diamond included. Look at it this way, you got a GriGri2, got some use out of it, now you get a brand new replacement. WIN!

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By NYClimber
From New York
Jun 28, 2012
Awesome slab climb right out of the water! Rogers ...
LOL...good point!

But now I'll be grounded from rope soloing until it is sent back and a repl returned now! Maybe a good time for the ascender purchase and the Traxion....uggh.

: (

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By Matt N
From Santa Barbara, CA
Jun 28, 2012
OTL
WC ropeman can be found cheap backcountry.com/wild-country-r...

+ back up knots, for a quick and cheap alternative system.

outdoorgearlab.com/a/11085/The...

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By Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Jun 28, 2012
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after...
Didn't you say you already have two Ascensions? If you already have two ascenders, they'll work fine for that system.

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By Raquel ROCKY Robles
From Encinitas, CA
Jun 28, 2012
On my way down from ECM! Enjoying Life :)
FrankPS wrote:
Then I read the threads on using two Mini-Traxions on a weighted rope. Works much better. "Tracks" (feeds) much easier, without having to pull slack through so I can work harder routes. I don't use any additional backups with this because I think it's unlikely both would fail or disengage. Know the risks.


Hello, I am not much of an expert however I did a lot of research. Talked to people that actually did TR Solo. Asked a lot questions about their systems.

For me, I chose 2 mini-traxions, w/ modifications(PM me if you are interested on how I did the modifications). The 1st MT is attached to my chest slings w/ a locking biner w/ a small runner and another locking biner that is thread between the 2 points of the harness where you put the rope to tie in. I know it sounds complicated, sorry. It is pretty much the same set up on the Petzl website has.

I used the 2nd MT as my back up w/c is attached to my belay loop w/ a locking biner. I have my grigri/or atc ready to use on my belay loop for repel. Eventually you will figure out a "rhythm" so to speak from the time you set up the TR anchor up top(w/c can be the sketchiest part, well at least for me) and rapel down and begin climbing.

With this system, I have been able to climb on days where I am not able to find a partner and run laps on a route. Work on my footwork and breathing. It has been really fun!!

Here's a video of me TR soloing. A week later I changed my chest sling setup from this video. Have fun and be safe :)

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By NYClimber
From New York
Jun 28, 2012
Awesome slab climb right out of the water! Rogers ...
Jake Jones wrote:
Didn't you say you already have two Ascensions? If you already have two ascenders, they'll work fine for that system.


Jake - no..I did years and years ago when I was a caver - back in the 80's but sold all my gear in the early 1990's. I just got back into climbing in 2011 again.

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By NYClimber
From New York
Jun 28, 2012
Awesome slab climb right out of the water! Rogers ...
Matt N wrote:
WC ropeman can be found cheap backcountry.com/wild-country-r... + back up knots, for a quick and cheap alternative system. outdoorgearlab.com/a/11085/The...


Thanks Matt!

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By NYClimber
From New York
Jun 28, 2012
Awesome slab climb right out of the water! Rogers ...
Raquel - I don't see a video link!

???

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By FrankPS
From Atascadero, CA
Jun 28, 2012
Michael Urban wrote:
Raquel - I don't see a video link! ???


Michael - It's there. May be the security program on your computer blocking it. I can see it.

FLAG
By NYClimber
From New York
Jun 28, 2012
Awesome slab climb right out of the water! Rogers ...
All,
I have discovered yesterday that I REALLY liked climbing roped solo...

It's not an ego thing, nor that I have a death wish in the least bit, r that I don't sometimes enjoy the company of a fellow climbing partner as well. But some days - due to my schedule as a nurse - it just doesn't allow for it. Also - I found that I was more focused climbing my myself - I was able to take my time, no distractions (other than having to pull the rope thru the GriGri and keep clipping into the back up knots). I had this 'The leader must not fall' attitude - as we use when we ice climb of course - but, I was just 'into it' more it seems. Maybe it was the 'seriousness' of rigging, etc. I actually find rapping these days now that I have climbed and caved enuff to not be THE most fun thing anymore b/c I know it's perhaps THE most dangerous thing a climber CAN do in climbing - one can get 'the chop' a bunch of different ways when rapping - which is why now I started using a autoblock when rapping now.

But I found I was stoked and felt 'high' just climbing yesterday in that style - 1:1 - just myself and the rock. Was awesome. Peaceful and quiet....and I took my time thinking about my moves - when, where to move my feet, finger holds, etc. It was very focused like I have never quite climbed before - and addictive!

FLAG
By NYClimber
From New York
Jun 28, 2012
Awesome slab climb right out of the water! Rogers ...
FrankPS wrote:
Michael - It's there. May be the security program on your computer blocking it. I can see it.


Thanks, had to go into Internet Explorer to see it - this damn Firefox I have been using has been blocking all my vids! POS!

FLAG
By NYClimber
From New York
Jun 28, 2012
Awesome slab climb right out of the water! Rogers ...
Hello, I am not much of an expert however I did a lot of research. Talked to people that actually did TR Solo. Asked a lot questions about their systems. For me, I chose 2 mini-traxions, w/ modifications(PM me if you are interested on how I did the modifications). The 1st MT is attached to my chest slings w/ a locking biner w/ a small runner and another locking biner that is thread between the 2 points of the harness where you put the rope to tie in. I know it sounds complicated, sorry. It is pretty much the same set up on the Petzl website has. I used the 2nd MT as my back up w/c is attached to my belay loop w/ a locking biner. I have my grigri/or atc ready to use on my belay loop for repel. Eventually you will figure out a "rhythm" so to speak from the time you set up the TR anchor up top(w/c can be the sketchiest part, well at least for me) and rapel down and begin climbing. With this system, I have been able to climb on days where I am not able to find a partner and run laps on a route. Work on my footwork and breathing. It has been really fun!! Here's a video of me TR soloing. A week later I changed my chest sling setup from this video. Have fun and be safe :)
>


OK - I watched the video but couldn't really make out much of the rig she was using.

Also - she was only using 1 strand of rope to climb and not a 2nd seperate strand as a backup????

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By Will S
From Joshua Tree
Jun 28, 2012
supertopo.com/a/How-to-Set-Up-...

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By NYClimber
From New York
Jun 28, 2012
Awesome slab climb right out of the water! Rogers ...
Jake,
I just thought of something!

If one is using a system of say - 1 ascender and 1 Traxion device - on 1 rope or 2 seperate ropes - they don't allow for a easy rap off / lowering if you fail to send the route - as would the GriGri already on your waist. The GriGri lends itself to being able to lower yourself using it easily on rappel to the ground w/o having to mess with hooking up a Fig 8 or a ATC to then lower off the route with.

??????

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By Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Jun 29, 2012
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after...
Yes and no. I mentioned this in the pros and cons of the system I use.

On one hand, if you're using a GriGri, then descent is a breeze. You can either use a friction hitch backup (recommended) or not- either way, your belay device becomes a rappel device and you simply rappel down.

On the other hand, with the two rope system I use, the ascender is at my chest, and my Mini Trax backup is on a short runner. That means there's some slack in the backup, and it's not weighted unless it's deployed. If I can't finish the route for whatever reason, I simply rest on the ascender. The Mini Trax has no weight on it, since it's on a short runner. I take the Mini Trax off the rope, and using the same runner, I put the rappel device on. I usually rig a friction hitch backup as well.

After I've done this, I move up the ropes until I can transfer my weight from the belay line (ascender) to the rap line. Once the weight is off the ascender, you can remove it, and you're ready to rap. Basically the same process at the top, except I anchor in while I'm doing all that.

It sounds sort of complicated, but it's really not. If you do it enough, you become very quick and proficient.

Some people hate the extra steps though, and would rather pull slack through a GriGri so that time not climbing and back down to the base of the route is expedited- not to mention it requires far less gear. This is especially useful for running laps. Whereas on a system with a GriGri, it may take you thirty seconds or so to rig a backup and get back down, the system I use takes about 2 minutes or so to do the same thing.

It really is a matter of preference. I use both. Recently though, working routes where I can focus on more difficulty and do some mock leading and placing gear has taken priority over quick descent. Every once in a while though, just to get a workout, I'll get on something that has good stances all the way up and just go up and down on my Cinch pullng slack on the way up and quickly rapping back down.

Hope this helps.

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By NYClimber
From New York
Jul 6, 2012
Awesome slab climb right out of the water! Rogers ...
Jake,
I have since purchased a Mini Traxion and have a Petzl ascender on the way as well. The Traxion looks like (as you suggested!)that it will be perfect for my backup rope and slide freely up the rope as suggested. I think this combo is going to work much better eliminating the need to constantly keep pulling the slack out of the GriGri - which I found to be a PITA when at difficult sections and crux's - thus requiring me to have to climb well below my skill level - and not being able to push the boundaries as much as I'd have liked to - having to have a hand free all the time to pull the slack rope up thru the GriGri - and - clipping/unclipping into backup knots every 8 ft was also a PITA as well.

I will let you know how your system works when I get to try it out - probably not for another week though. Work (duty) calls all week long!

FLAG
 
By J. Broussard
From CordryCorner
Jul 6, 2012
Young Good Free Face, 11b
There's a lot of posts here. Didn't really ready many of them. Sorry :)
But I've had a lot of fun extending my ascendents away from my waist by running one sling off of my harness to another 2 slings (1 for each ascender). Essentially keeping the ascendenders 2 sling lengths away from my waist.

That enables my hips to move freely and uninhibited away from the line of the rope. Having your ascension device attached directly to your harness means the rope has to move with you side to side & that takes away from the joy of the movement.

FLAG


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