Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) 

It is possible to climb at Sespe Gorge year round; however, hot summer days can be unpleasant and winter is hit or miss. Warm, winter days can actually be fantastic as this is the only time of year when you are likely to have the wall to yourself. Just keep in mind that you will climb in the shade for most of the day. Also know that Hwy 33 is subject to occasional closure due to snow, and even on warm days, high water can make the wall completely inaccessible.

The rappel-situation at Sespe is esoteric, to say the least. The two trade routes (Tree Route and Ending Crack) funnel parties to one top anchor and down one multi-pitch rappel line. On busy weekends, the rappel line can become congested. Fortunately, the rappel line shares little ground with the climbing route of Ending Crack.

Parties descending the usual rappel line are required to share a fixed anchor with any party that is climbing Ending Crack. Climbing parties and rappel parties share the P1 fixed anchor ALL THE TIME. So, do not be surprised when that party behind you starts firing up the first pitch well before you've begun your rappel. Please be friendly and accommodating whether you are the ones climbing or rapping.

None of the alternate descents from Ending Crack and Tree Route is appealing.

For almost half a century, climbers on Ending Crack have belayed from the crack (it IS a crack, eh). Granted, it is not as convenient, but it's one way to avoid a CF at the fixed anchor.

The Black Wall has sprouted 2 new sets of bolts--one that is 80 feet below the P1 bolts of ending crack (an intermediate rap station?) and one part way up the first pitch of Wadka.

If you have information about these (who, what, when, etc.) please post it here.

John,
First off, THANKS for enriching the Sespe page with all of your recent contributions.

In regard to the bolts alongside Ending Crack, the Steve Edwards book refers to the 3-bolt rap-station that is approximately 140 feet up. These were placed by Reese Martin in '99. The additional bolts lower down (which have since been removed) are the ones that we were questioning the origin of.

Climbers,

I have finally finished the first of my downloadable e-Guides. I’ve decided to start with Sespe Gorge.

You can download the e-Guide by going to my website: centralcoastclimbing.com/toposeguides.html and clicking the link below the picture. Or, just send me an e-mail (john@centralcoastclimbing.com) with the title "Sespe e-Guide Wanted" and I'll send it your way.

The e-Guide currently includes the 23 trad climbs on the Black Wall in Sespe Gorge just outside of Ojai. The climbs range in grade from 5.5 to 5.10c and include many multi-pitch climbs. In fact, the 3 pitch Ending Crack (5.7) is widely believed to be the best multi-pitch crack climb on the Central Coast. Other classics include the 2 pitch Tree Root (5.6) and the 140’ high Pipe Cleaner (5.6). Sespe is a great place to take beginners and beginning leaders. There are several 5.5 and 5.6 climbs that are well protected for emerging leaders to practice their trad and multi-pitch skills. The short approach (3 minutes) and mountain setting make it very accessible and quite enjoyable.

Please tell your friends the e-Guide is available and let me know if you have questions or edits.

Thanks,

John (john@centralcoastclimbing.com)