|(2) Hanging Gardens
Start with the off-width pitch of Hanging Gardens bypassing the maple tree belay veering right to the bolted belay in a corner and nice ledge. Climb the zig zag crack on jugs and good jams for a brief fury of moves to another bolted belay about 20 feet higher. Single 60m rope gets you to the ground.
Hanging Gardens wall
Cams between 1 to 3 inches
From: Chicago, IL
Apr 17, 2010
This is a great, but very short, route. As the info says, approach via Hanging Gardens 1st pitch, continuing into the 2nd pitch of H.G. right and up. A 2-piton anchor (no slings, old pins) will be visible as you climb up. From here, Sesame Street is clearly visible. I'd recommend pitching it out into 2 pitches, as opposed to 1 long pitch (doable, but bring plenty of runners). Wish it were longer.
Gear: In addition to cams 1-3", a few small to medium stoppers were pretty nice to have on the H.G. pitch.
Apr 19, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
You can do this in a single pitch from the ground if you do the more direct approach and climb B.F.D instead of Hanging Gardens. (a couple runners between the pitons & the bottom of the crack will help with drag - and don't clip the bolt anchors). A 70M rope is recommended for linking it up this way.
It's funny how the beta picture makes it look almost slabby.
|By another Chad|
Jun 7, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
How did this route get the rarefied grade of 5.9+? It feels easier than Classic Crack, Loose Block Overhang, Chockstone Chimney and P1 of Gandalph's Grip. Then again, what's it matter. Great climb, all fifteen feet of it!