Serrator Crack 5.11a/b
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a [details] |
| FA: | Alan the Brit |
| Submitted By: | Wade Griffith on Feb 27, 2006 |
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BETA PHOTO: Serrator crack
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Description This route is found just to the left of Layaway Plan and cannot be mistaken since the name says it all. The first 20 feet is the meat of the climb, just insert your leg and start stackin. The rest of the climb is only about 5.8 but you need to walk the #5 for a bit and beware of the serrating edge.
Protection Camalots-(2) #4's, (2) #4.5"s, (1) #5. I used one of the #4's at the beginning and found a crappy placement for the other near the top. It might be better to leave a #4 and take another #5, except that you have to lug the boat anchor then.
Photographer Andrew Burr, caught on the other side...
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Climber/Photographer Andrew Burr is as deft with t...
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A cameraman HATES to be caught without a camera......
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Me. Turns out #6's are heavy....who knew.
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Starting up the Serrator
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Further progress up the Serrator
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Alf hauling a Valley Giant up the Serrator
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The Serrator: scary maneater, bring the big stuff
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Knee jam!
I had way more cams than I needed..
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| Comments on Serrator Crack |
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By m-earle
From: Concord, MA
Apr 23, 2007
| I had one #6 wild country, which i wakled from the start of the serrator for 20'. after that, the crack becomes too big for the last 15'-20' or so. it would be nice to have two #6 cams; its a little scary being 60' off the deck with basicaly one cam between you and a ground fall. |
By Evan Stevens
Sep 10, 2007
| Gotta give credit to Alan the Brit for putting this one up in 2002? |
By Ol' Toby
From: CO
May 11, 2009
rating: 5.11a
| Such an striking, fun line. Really only a 20 ft section of offwidth before the line eases up considerably. Bring two C4 #6s for the 'serrated' section or push one for 30 feet or so to a stance below the final moves. |
By JoergB
From: Germany
Oct 14, 2009
| Difficulty is to get over the constriction a the start, and the next meter where still the knee does not fit. Once it fits in, the thing is fun. |
By D-Storm
Apr 1, 2012
rating: 5.11-
| A great primer for Big Guy. If running it out at the end, as seems to be the common practice, be ready for one more spot of fear before reaching the chains. The top of the flake is fractured, forming a big perched block that you have to pull on to finish. It's probably stable enough for some time to come, but terrifying to think about while monkeying around on the thin, hollow thing with no pro in sight below. |
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