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Routes in West Face
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Hobbit Book T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Middle Earth T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Mordor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Serrated Edge T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Valinor T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | FA: Rich Doleman, Steve Williams 1971, FFA: Tom Higgins, Bob Kamps |
| Page Views: | 3,740 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | john durr on Aug 26, 2010 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
A very appropriately named route...burly adventure crack climbing. Four pitches up a long right facing dihedral. Excellent.
Pitch 1: Scramble up the orange lichen face 15' right of the broken dihedral with cracks and blocks 5.8. Join the dihedral and follow it past large blocks to the first roof. Hands and stemming out the roof 5.9. Up to the second roof good hands turns to flared hands (crux) for 15 feet till it eases and an obvious stance is reached. Gear belay small to 2" - 90 feet - 5.10a/b.
Pitch 2: Lieback the 3" crack until you can duck into a squeeze chimney with wedged blocks in the back. Jam out the twin hand cracks in the roof to it's right side. Boulder the hard hand crack roof and continue for 20' of easier hands to a small ledge. Take care to not allow the rope to get stuck in the roof. Gear belay large stoppers, 2"-3" nuts or Camalots used as nuts - 80 feet - 5.10b.
Pitch 3: Lieback and jam the wide crack off the belay for 30 feet to yet another roof 5.9. Climb the roof and follow moderate hand cracks to a nice stance in a shallow alcove. Gear belay thin to 2" - 100 feet - 5.9.
Pitch 4: Slightly loose with many ways to go. Jam and knobs up the crack above until it fades ~90 feet. Easy knobs left gain a short right facing corner with a loose flake. Lieback the flake up to a giant black knob 5.8 ~30 feet. Continue moderate cracks and knobs straight up to a tree covered ramp. Gear belay with many options - 200 feet - 5.8.
Pitch 5: Easy third class to the summit following the ramp up and right to near the top of Hobbit Book ~ 100 feet.
Pitch 1: Scramble up the orange lichen face 15' right of the broken dihedral with cracks and blocks 5.8. Join the dihedral and follow it past large blocks to the first roof. Hands and stemming out the roof 5.9. Up to the second roof good hands turns to flared hands (crux) for 15 feet till it eases and an obvious stance is reached. Gear belay small to 2" - 90 feet - 5.10a/b.
Pitch 2: Lieback the 3" crack until you can duck into a squeeze chimney with wedged blocks in the back. Jam out the twin hand cracks in the roof to it's right side. Boulder the hard hand crack roof and continue for 20' of easier hands to a small ledge. Take care to not allow the rope to get stuck in the roof. Gear belay large stoppers, 2"-3" nuts or Camalots used as nuts - 80 feet - 5.10b.
Pitch 3: Lieback and jam the wide crack off the belay for 30 feet to yet another roof 5.9. Climb the roof and follow moderate hand cracks to a nice stance in a shallow alcove. Gear belay thin to 2" - 100 feet - 5.9.
Pitch 4: Slightly loose with many ways to go. Jam and knobs up the crack above until it fades ~90 feet. Easy knobs left gain a short right facing corner with a loose flake. Lieback the flake up to a giant black knob 5.8 ~30 feet. Continue moderate cracks and knobs straight up to a tree covered ramp. Gear belay with many options - 200 feet - 5.8.
Pitch 5: Easy third class to the summit following the ramp up and right to near the top of Hobbit Book ~ 100 feet.
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