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Serenity

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Eavesdown Docks 
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Serenity  


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Location: 40.45117, -111.66571 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 24,038
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Sep 7, 2013
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Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Shady, with a short approach and lots of moderate routes.

The majority of the routes are on north-north-west and north-west facing rock and thus are in the shade until mid-afternoon during the warmer months. However, even in the afternoon many of the routes are shaded by trees and so are climbable without discomfort.

Note that at the time of this writing the routes here are all less than a year old. Until twenty years of traffic have cleaned them up they won't be quite like Division Wall. There is still a bit of grit and the odd loose rock. The upside is that the routes aren't polished, slick and over-chalked.

Getting There 

Park near the outlet of the Little Mill Campground (either inside the campground near Division or just past the exit bridge on the right side of the road).

Find the paved trail that leads east from the campground area (blocked with a couple of anti-vehicle pillars). Follow this trail for a few hundred feet until you come to a clearing on the right side that is bisected by a line of three-foot boulders.

Through the clearing on the far side of the boulders walk over a small, sandy area and follow a trail up the drainage until you come to a large, rough stump on the right side (there is a smaller stump prior to the larger one). Immediately past the stump turn right and walk twenty or thirty feet. You'll see in front of you a gray limestone wall. This is Haven, the left-most collection of routes at Serenity.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.7 miles from here

30 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',15],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',3],['5.9',5],['5.10',10],['5.11',11],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Serenity:
The Companion   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   Eavesdown Docks
Terraformed   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Persephone
Jubal   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   Eavesdown Docks
Out to the Black   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Eavesdown Docks
Out of Gas   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Eavesdown Docks
Bushwhacked   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Eavesdown Docks
Sudden, Yet Inevitable Betrayal   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Eavesdown Docks
Browncoat   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Eavesdown Docks
Firefly   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   Eavesdown Docks
Our Mrs. Reynolds   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 60'   Persephone
Captain Hammer   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Eavesdown Docks
Oh Captain! My Captain!   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Eavesdown Docks
The Alliance   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Eavesdown Docks
Heart of Gold   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   The Rim
Hero Of Canton   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Persephone
Captain Mal   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   Eavesdown Docks
Two by Two   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Haven
Shiny   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Haven
Stone Cold Xiaosho   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 50'   Haven
Captain Tight Pants   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Eavesdown Docks
Browse More Classics in Serenity

Featured Route For Serenity
Wayne Pullman leading Out of Gas 5.9.

Out of Gas 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Eavesdown Docks
A truly fun jug haul whose start climbs like the 5.9 gym route on the lead wall. You know: the one that's super steep with huge jugs that you think doesn't exist outside.Start at the base of a right-facing corner (same start as for Shindig) and head up and then left on big holds. At the second bolt, head farther left using big moves on bigger holds with dicey feet. Make the transition to the face and enjoy the big pockets for a couple of bolts until a ledge.After the ledge climb next to...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Serenity Slideshow Add Photo
The stump in the description after which you turn ...
BETA PHOTO: The stump in the description after which you turn ...
"Getting There" map.
BETA PHOTO: "Getting There" map.
The clearing bisected by boulders in the descripti...
BETA PHOTO: The clearing bisected by boulders in the descripti...
DK, Perin, John Ross. Hard at work making Serenity...
DK, Perin, John Ross. Hard at work making Serenity...

Comments on Serenity Add Comment
Show which comments
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Sep 7, 2013
Somebody's been watching a little Firefly!
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Sep 8, 2013
Solid work gentlemen! It's not everyday that you see 25 odd new routes pop up in AF. Can't wait to visit the crag and clean some of the choss off! I like the naming scheme too!
By nooky brown
Sep 8, 2013
Finally, a shady summer cliff with a bunch of moderate routes.
Should not take too long to clean up as it will probably become one of the most popular cliffs in the canyon.
I would strongly suggest the belayer wear a helmet for the next year or two.

Kudos to Perin and Darren for all the hard work and expense.
By Austin Baird
From: SLC, Utah
Sep 12, 2013
Great area!! I can't believe how much good climbing these guys pulled out of a 5 minute approach from the car. Definitely take helmets; you'll be sure to pull several holds off each route you get on. Also consider rapping off some of the taller routes - the anchors are above ledges or bulges that make getting lowered hard on your rope.

Thanks for all the work!
By chris nance
Jun 8, 2014
Fun routes! The routes need some clean-up for sure. The grades were not consistent with other AF areas in my opinion. I thought over-all the grades were higher than they should have been. The 11's were closer to upper 10s and as the routes get cleaner and holds become more obvious I think the ratings will need to come down significantly. Thanks for all the work and effort putting them up. Very nice spot!
By John Ross
From: Wasatch Front, UT
Jun 10, 2014
@chris_nance, thanks for the input and for adding your take on route ratings. I know there are more climbers on these routes so hopefully they will share their feedback too.
By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
Oct 19, 2014
Give this area 5 years and hopefully it will be as clean as division, but for now, beware the choss! We did our part by breaking several holds, mostly feet, on every route.