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Apocalypse Walls
Routes Sorted
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An Elephant Never Forgets  T 
Apocalypse Later S 
Bad Seed S 
Captain Fingers S 
Corporal Punishment S 
Good Earth S 
Kate's Arete S 
Serenity Now S 
Supreme Onion Sacrifice S 
They Come and They Go T 

Serenity Now 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Chris Smith 7/00
Page Views: 1,030
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jan 15, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (47)
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BETA PHOTO: View from the base, winter.

Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Serenity Now is a great route to get on when folks are waiting in line for the "classic" 5.7s at the Meadows. You can normally get on this route on a busy day, and I'd say it's one of the best routes of the grade close to the parking lot.

You start up the same slab as Apocalypse Later (5.11c), but head left around the corner into the wet gully. Without wetting your feet, climb up on to the right hand wall of the gully and follow the bolts to the quick clips. The crux is on the upper part of the climb and is done in a few different ways, all of which give you your money's worth for the grade. Kinda tricky.

When lowering, keep the rope moving because the rope tends to run over some kinda sharp rock.

Location 

The right hand wall of the left gully.

Protection 

4 bolts to quick clips.


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Serenity Now
BETA PHOTO: Serenity Now

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By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Dec 15, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This route is a lot of fun, and for a new climber it is a little heady, you may feel like if you fall you will swing out around the arete and then slam into it, but I assure you it is completely safe. Have fun.
By BiRD
Apr 16, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Easy, but nice route, little crux at the end :)
By Peter Jackson
From: Rumney, NH
Jan 2, 2011

You can avoid running the rope over sharp rock during lowering if you belay from as far up the trail as you can reach (to the left).
By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
May 14, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Maybe it felt harder because I was on lead, but the last move felt very much 5.8 to me.