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Routes in Questa Dome
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Aero Questa T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Ancient Ones, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Another Pretty Face T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Con Questa Libre T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Jonny Questa T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Questando La Via Sin Arboles T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Questar T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Question of Balance T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Questionable Timing T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Sequestered T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Tostadas Comquesta T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | FA: Ken Trout FFA: Paul Horak, Peter Prandoni, and Doug Bridgers |
| Page Views: | 1,873 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | jesse punsal on Oct 31, 2015 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Nesting
Details
This climbing area is shared with raptors that nest on the cliffs. Help us maintain access and please avoid climbing near active nests/ledges that raptors are using. If a raptor is disturbed during nesting season it may exhibit aggressive defensive behaviors like vocalizing or dive-bombing. If you witness this behavior, retreat from your climb immediately and find a location on a different formation or a different part of the wall far enough away from the raptors that they are no longer noticeably agitated. If they remain agitated, then please leave the area immediately.
Raptor awareness is especially important during nesting season from mid-February to late May but needs to be considered through the end of August. Please report disturbed and/or nesting raptors to the Carson National Forest the appropriate district office (see below) and share relevant information here on MP. Human-raptor encounters can have negative impacts for the birds and climbers in the area. The Cason NF wants to maintain climbing access while protecting raptor reproduction and relies on climbers to recreate responsibly and share information in order to avoid the need for formal raptor closures.
Questa Ranger District
(575) 586-0520
Camino Real (Comales Canyon) Ranger District
(575) 587-2255
Tres Piedras Ranger District
(575) 758-8678
El Rito Ranger District
(575) 581-4554
Raptor awareness is especially important during nesting season from mid-February to late May but needs to be considered through the end of August. Please report disturbed and/or nesting raptors to the Carson National Forest the appropriate district office (see below) and share relevant information here on MP. Human-raptor encounters can have negative impacts for the birds and climbers in the area. The Cason NF wants to maintain climbing access while protecting raptor reproduction and relies on climbers to recreate responsibly and share information in order to avoid the need for formal raptor closures.
Questa Ranger District
(575) 586-0520
Camino Real (Comales Canyon) Ranger District
(575) 587-2255
Tres Piedras Ranger District
(575) 758-8678
El Rito Ranger District
(575) 581-4554
Description
Sequestered follows the right of 2 prominent right-angling crack system on the left side of Questa Dome. These are clear from the trail. You'll find beautiful rock, wonderful climbing, and some thin sections on this adventurous climb. The route description is in both guidebooks, but recommend splitting the pitches as below:
Rope up on the left side of Questa Dome, below a large left-facing corner, about 50' left of the start of Question of Balance.
P1: (190' 5.10- same as Questar) Start in a large left facing corner before transferring [left] to the dirty crack at ~20'. Follow easy climbing up and right (optional belay in here) till finding a left angling hand traverse crack leading to a small roof. After the roof, traverse left on face holds to a hidden bolt (upgraded recently) then up to the layback crack. Belay at the tree.
P2: (135' 5.11+)[Paul Horak's original topo gives this pitch 5.11- while Rock Climbing NM gives it 5.12- the consensus seems to be about in the middle.] Step right from the tree and make a couple slab moves heading up and aiming for the roof. Traverse right under the roof till you can clip a bolt and turn it. Move left aiming for a second bolt and fun vertical crack climbing (50m belay). After the vertical climbing follow the ever thinning right angling crack till it becomes a seam. Keep it together through the harder moves above your small stoppers and RPs for the last six feet till to a good ledge at the bottom of the large right facing corner with some fixed gear.
P3: (160' 5.12-) Head up crack and chicken heads till you can commit to big holds on the arete to the left. As the holds run out mantle and clip a 1/4" bolt above your head. The thin flake I used to make this move flexed a bit, you'll know it when you see it. The climbing following these four bolts up and then right is definitely the technical crux, put your slab face on if you've climbed clean to here because it's THIN. After the bolts move back into the crack where there are two pins in the thin part and gear up higher. The guide says to belay on gear above the pins but it seems like an unnecessary hanging belay. Instead continue onto the 5.8 R climbing on chicken heads till you can move right to a small ledge with a crack for gear and a large interesting looking water gutter crack to its right.
I think two of the four bolts have been replaced on this pitch and the others felt solid when I hung on them.
P4: (5.8) I followed the dirty crack corner with a few loose rocks in it above the belay. The dike to the right looked fun and clean but unprotectable. After about 25' of climbing go up on easy ground till you feel like stopping.
Rope up on the left side of Questa Dome, below a large left-facing corner, about 50' left of the start of Question of Balance.
P1: (190' 5.10- same as Questar) Start in a large left facing corner before transferring [left] to the dirty crack at ~20'. Follow easy climbing up and right (optional belay in here) till finding a left angling hand traverse crack leading to a small roof. After the roof, traverse left on face holds to a hidden bolt (upgraded recently) then up to the layback crack. Belay at the tree.
P2: (135' 5.11+)[Paul Horak's original topo gives this pitch 5.11- while Rock Climbing NM gives it 5.12- the consensus seems to be about in the middle.] Step right from the tree and make a couple slab moves heading up and aiming for the roof. Traverse right under the roof till you can clip a bolt and turn it. Move left aiming for a second bolt and fun vertical crack climbing (50m belay). After the vertical climbing follow the ever thinning right angling crack till it becomes a seam. Keep it together through the harder moves above your small stoppers and RPs for the last six feet till to a good ledge at the bottom of the large right facing corner with some fixed gear.
P3: (160' 5.12-) Head up crack and chicken heads till you can commit to big holds on the arete to the left. As the holds run out mantle and clip a 1/4" bolt above your head. The thin flake I used to make this move flexed a bit, you'll know it when you see it. The climbing following these four bolts up and then right is definitely the technical crux, put your slab face on if you've climbed clean to here because it's THIN. After the bolts move back into the crack where there are two pins in the thin part and gear up higher. The guide says to belay on gear above the pins but it seems like an unnecessary hanging belay. Instead continue onto the 5.8 R climbing on chicken heads till you can move right to a small ledge with a crack for gear and a large interesting looking water gutter crack to its right.
I think two of the four bolts have been replaced on this pitch and the others felt solid when I hung on them.
P4: (5.8) I followed the dirty crack corner with a few loose rocks in it above the belay. The dike to the right looked fun and clean but unprotectable. After about 25' of climbing go up on easy ground till you feel like stopping.
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