This route starts to the left of the boulder below Gargantua. Ascend the easier slab at the bottom and head towards the large notch in the roof. Pull through the notch on positive seams, then above the roof move up and left on progressively smaller holds.
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Campton, NH Nov 14, 2005 rating: 5.12c7b+27IX-27E6 6b
This climb is heinous. I tried it last weekend, and couldn't even SEE how to do the upper crux. Plus, it's a bit less than vertical making it a slab and making the holds way too small for me.
Perhaps a hold broke. Or, and this is more likely, perhaps I just could not muster up the technique or finger strength or whatever to get up the thing. I suppose I could call this my nemesis. That is, if I ever get on it again.
I was there when Terry got it and he is actually being quite modest - he got it on his negative second attempt, that is, he sent it two tries before his first go...
Actually, if memory serves, after the last easier move there is an improbable open handed pinch grip with the right hand - kind of like palming a rough basketball - that allows you to step up - then it is a race to the top as your forearms start to implode. It didn't feel that reachy (though I'm tall).
After several sessions I figured out what I need to do to get up this thing. I went slightly right at the notch on good holds and then a bigger move to the last good hold, a pocket like feature, with my left hand. From there I went straight up on a few micro crimps and bad feet, squeezed, with my left hand, a sloper rail and then back right on better holds with a nasty foot switch which got me to the finishing jug. I'd give it more like 3 out of 4 stars, it was a bit reachy the way I did it but there are plenty of micro options for the shorter folk. 5.12a/b
I led this today. Good pro through the good holds then two small Astro Nuts in the pocket feature with a screamer up through mini crimps and a nasty sloper. About 12ft run out to the top out. My belayer was on the boulder ready to jump. A bitter sweet send, I tore up my shoulder on the second to last move. Damn!!!!
Wow, nice lead, man. I can't imagine going up that nightmare face over over crappy gear...Anyone know if that was the first lead this thing has seen?
By Tradoholic Nov 20, 2008 rating: 5.12a/b7b26VIII+26E5 6a X
Extremists Guide says Ralph Schmitt had the TR FA in 1980.
By Tom Petraitis From: Evanston, IL May 4, 2009 rating: 5.12a/b7b26VIII+26E5 6a
I'll pretend I onsighted this route on Sunday this first weekend in May of '09. But in truth I made the mistake of Sheer Laziness trying to work with two sketchy handholds on poorly balanced feet early in the slabby crux. I knew it was chancy and I guess I was feeling cocky, so I went for it. I didn't see the better handhold that was six inches away. Fell. Got back on. Found the hold. Sent it.
I wish I could offer beta on the upper crux. It seemed dicey, but I managed alright and didn't see any reason to commit the moves to memory. (Unlike the top out of Gargantua which requires 7 tick marks and an essay!)