Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Funk Rock City
Select Route:
Appalachian Spring S 
Cruising Lane T 
Eye of the Needle S 
Frugal Chariot S 
Funkadelic S 
Glory Be  S 
Go Easy Billy Clyde! S 
Goodstone T 
Hardcore Jollies S 
Headstone Surfer T 
Infidel, The S 
Joe Camel T 
L'ile Au Ciel S 
Local Color TR 
Manic Impression S 
Orange Juice S 
Prime Directive S 
Red Hot Chilli Pepper T,S 
Rite of Passage T 
Seppuku S 
Smokin' Joe S 
Sparkey Goes Crack Climbing T 
There Goes the Neighborhood S 
Up Swift Creek Without A Paddle T 
Veldhaus Route T 

Seppuku 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: FA: Bill Ramsey, 1998
Season: Winter
Page Views: 506
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Nov 12, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Seppuku & Appalachian Spring from the ground. Sep...

Description 

Seppuku climbs a beautiful orange buttress of impeccable stone on a slightly overhanging wall. Unfortunately water seeps from the 5th bolt hole which detracts from an otherwise stellar line. This route is a bit more burly than your typical RRG power endurance sprint. The movement is technical with a distinct crux followed by easier sequential pocket pulling.

Begin with easy, unprotected moves up to the big ledge. Probably best to leave the belayer on the ground, and pass the stick clip up to the ledge to pre-clip the first bolt. Climb the vertical, sculpted wall right of the bolt line to a bushy and often damp horizontal break. Move back left, to the top of a shallow right-facing dihedral. At this point "Appalachian Spring" heads left. Stay right, eventually working up to the top of the obvious, large, leaning right-facing dihedral and the wet 5th bolt. Cruxy crimp moves head back left towards the sixth bolt. With a building pump, big moves between generally good pockets lead to a small rooflet & the original rusty anchor. Make a couple more easy moves to a new anchor in better rock a few feet above.

"Seppuku" is the Samurai practice of ritualistic suicide. For a glamorized example, check out the visually pleasing Tom Cruise film "The Last Samurai". Not clear what that has to do with the climbing, but a cool route name nonetheless!

Location 

Right of a large fenced-off cave is an orange buttress capped by a 10' horizontal roof. Two sport routes climb this buttress, beginning from a large ledge 10' up, and sharing the first two bolts. Seppuku is the right-most line.

Protection 

~8 Bolts, 2 BA. Stick clip recommended to clip the first bolt off the ledge. There are a number of long sticks sitting on the ledge.

Water seeps from the 5th bolt, which is also the bolt that protects the crux. It appears that it would be a clean fall if this bolt pulled out, but use your own judgement.


Photos of Seppuku Slideshow Add Photo
Side view of the Appalachian Spring/Seppuku buttress.
Side view of the Appalachian Spring/Seppuku buttre...

Comments on Seppuku Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -