Separation of Chirp & Plate  5.9

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Type:  Sport, 45 feet Consensus:  5.9+ [details] FA:  Chris Gillet Submitted By:  Craig Childre on Feb 1, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. MORE INFO >>> The Lincoln National Forest Service continues its ban on bolting new routes (or, by permission only). However, climbing is currently allowed in all areas of Last Chance Canyon. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

After clearing the hiking ramp, clip a bolt that just might save you from rolling all the way down to the dirt should you slip on the stacked choss during the next 8 feet of climbing. Tread lightly up to the next bolt. If you find the clipping hold feels like a sloper, just keep moving right, there's a jug. Just above the second bolt is a balancy, crimpy move that might test your headgame. Great movement all the way up this line. One can Move left or right, depending on your place along the route to find easier climbing. The best line sticks to the face on the more direct line.

Location 

Between Fossil (Trad Route) and 3 Feet From An Orgy - a.k.a. Fossil Fling, #3 on the topo.

Protection 

6 Bolts, and chain anchor

Bodycount 

This route snapped a Midland local's ankle one Sunday in 2006 when he blew the clip at the third bolt. Earned him a trip out hopping on one leg aided by two climbers at his sides.