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The Far Side
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Unsorted Routes:

Separation Anxiety 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type: Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Chris Witmore and Tim Webmoor
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,492
Submitted By: Chris Witmore on Apr 27, 2004
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Description 

This route starts to the left of Kola and follows the bolting practice set by Summit with the first bolt around 17 ft off the ground. The route moves up and onto the left face of the spire. Great holds and long reaches will get you into the exposed section on the extremely unstable looking vertical flake. Take care with clipping the 4th bolt; one wrong move and you could end up hanging in the tree below. Also be careful of the large loose block just above the main flake--a human could easily pull this down.


Protection 

4 bolts, shares shuts with Kola



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By Chris Witmore
Apr 26, 2004

P.S. this route is called "Separation Anxiety" for good reason, the large flake, which comprises the entire upper section looks as if it wants to come down (and I'm sure it will eventually). Pray your not on it in the middle of an earthquake!

By Tim Webmoor
Apr 27, 2004
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a R

Nice compliment to Kola rock. Getting off the ground to first bolt and moving with undercling between 2nd and 3rd bolts are highlights.Steps up to Kola rock help with the notorious slide-effect on the Far-Side.

By Dodrill
From: Sebastopol, CA
Apr 23, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Contrived. Follows a protectable crack for the first half. The top is better. You can't see the first bolt from the ground. Start at the left edge of the face. The "flake" is solid, a nice 5.7 or .8 hand crack.

By splitclimber
Jul 27, 2011

awkward with some fun moves. best to TR first with directionals after climbing kola. a fall will put you in the tree. I yanked on those flakes, too. :)

thx for the addition Tim and Chris.

By Floyd Hayes
Sep 21, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13

I top-roped it. The most natural line would be following the upper hand crack to the top (could be considered the "crack variation") rather than moving out left on the upper face, which seemed a bit contrived.