|Wildcat Falls & Above the Cookie
Separate Reality is the photogenic, quintessential Yosemite roof climb. It's short, aesthetic, athletic, and buckets o' fun.
Take Hwy 120 out of the Valley and after going through two short tunnels, park at a paved pullout immediately before the third, long tunnel. Hike up the road to the mouth of this tunnel, jump over the stone wall, and follow a steep track down the cliff for 3 minutes. This deposits you at the top of the Separate Reality visor. Just before walking onto the slab, locate a good pine tree to fix a line to and do a short (40') rap down to a staging area at the base of the climb.
It's pretty obvious: Climb the steep lieback flake to a stance, then bust out the 20' roof to a wild series of moves at the lip.
If you want to lead this on gear, I recommend a #3 Camalot for the belayer, a #1 and a #4 Camalot for the initial lieback section, and then a #3, a pair of #2s, a #1, and a 0.75 for the crack itself. However, a much easier option is to bring four or five hexes and long slings: One can easily pre-load the crack by dropping the hexes down in from above. One person should rap in first to direct this procedure.
|By Josh Janes|
Jun 8, 2007
Feet first is still the way to go!
From: Concord, MA
Jul 30, 2007
yeah, feet first is pretty clutch. you'd have to be super human to do it any other way
|By Dean Hoffman|
Sep 22, 2009
Trying to get a feel for how hard this is, how does it compare to say the Organasm or Castles in the Sand in Sedona? Thanks.
From: Morrison, CO
Sep 23, 2009
Its harder than the roof pitches of either of those climbs.
Jun 13, 2012
According to the Ray Jardine website, he did the First Ascent on March 12th 1977 with pro and free ascended it on March 23rd of the same year.
|By Mickey Sensenbach|
From: San luis obispo CA
Sep 16, 2013
again just trying to see how hard it is, is it like the backer cracker in the first hand jam, just more steep? do you not need any thing bigger then a number 4 camolot? is it C1 so I can down aid if I have pro under roof and cant pull it?