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 ADVANCED
Jailhouse Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Armed Robbery 
Assault with Battery 
Climb Spree 
Cold Hand Luke 
Crime and Punishment 
Finger Prince 
Grand Theft Otto 
Hard Time 
Jailbreak 
Just Punishment 
Petty Theft 
Prison Overcrowding 
Safecracker 
Sentenced To Hang 
Sentenced Traverse 
Solitary Refinement 
Yard Boss 

Sentenced To Hang 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Eric Fazio-Rhicard, Chris Henze 1988
Page Views: 5,681
Submitted By: Luke Bertelsen on Jun 4, 2005
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JB looking serious about red-pointing Sentenced. ...

Description 

The climb ascends overhanging water polished rock. Moves are long and powerful between good holds with the crux pulling on smaller holds with the same long moves. Although only 50ft. long it takes some good endurance to make it to the top. Add the boulder traverse from the start of Crime and Punishment into the climb (V6) and it is 13a.


Protection 

6 bolts to chain anchors. May also be top roped by walking around to the top. Several of the bolts should be replaced.



Photos of Sentenced To Hang Slideshow Add Photo
Andrew Guice setting toprope.
Andrew Guice setting toprope.
How NOT to clip if you wanna keep your melon intact :-)
How NOT to clip if you wanna keep your melon intac...
Old man on Rhicard and Henze's brilliant route.
Old man on Rhicard and Henze's brilliant route.
Corina Carlson stylin' while working out the top sequence.
Corina Carlson stylin' while working out the top s...
Nearing the fourth bolt
Nearing the fourth bolt
Working the crux (for me) sequence. I thought I might have to file my fingers down to be able to use the left hand crimp...but then I found the secret. Not telling.
Working the crux (for me) sequence. I thought I mi...
Geir finessing the moves on his redpoint.
Geir finessing the moves on his redpoint.
Comments on Sentenced To Hang Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 22, 2014
By 1Eric Rhicard
Mar 11, 2006
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b

Hey Luke, why should several of the bolts be replaced? If they are 5/16th buttonheads (I can't remember) they are as strong as a 3/8ths. The SMC Hangers are the newer safe ones. The rock there is as hard as any in southern AZ. Go to Safe Climbing .org or whatever it is called and ask them how safe the bolts that you say need to be replaced are. I will take twenty twenty footers on all but the lowest bolts. You might want to do a bit of research before you start typing!

By jbak
Feb 22, 2007
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a

This is a really good route. It may be on my "top ten 5.12s in So AZ" list. The buttonheads got my attention too, but I swallowed hard and ignored them. Closer to 12b than 12c. I'm surprised my old buddy Chris Henze never talked this route up to me.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Feb 22, 2007
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b

Those buttonheads are 5/16ths bolts. Go to any bolt safety site and they will tell you how tough they are. They are as strong as any 3/8th bolt as they have no threads. This means they are as strong. Ask Jerry Cagle or Geir how hard they are to remove. We took a bunch out when we rebolted Warpaint. On top of that they are in the hardest rock we climb on in S. Arizona. If you want to replace them feel free Jbak. Just don't make it impossible for me to clip them.

By jbak
Feb 22, 2007
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a

I believe you brother. I trusted them enough to risk some good plunkers. Are they stainless ? I noticed that wall gets a lot of seepage after a snowstorm. Great route, it climbs better than it looks and it doesn't look bad at all.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Mar 6, 2007
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b

Replaced all the 5/16ths button heads with 3/8ths stainless as well as the rusty looking first bolt. All were in good condition and would have lasted another 20 years. Now it's good to go for a long time.

By jbak
Mar 18, 2007
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a

Well since Jimbo showed me his MasterBeta (wait...that doesn't sound right...) Since Master Jimbo showed me his beta I was thinking that this route was only 12a. But I went back today and found that applying that beta was a bit more difficult if you didn't hang just before. So I used a modified version and it worked but I'm now convinced that 12b is correct.

By Luke Bertelsen
Mar 24, 2007

Honestly the rating debates get to be a little much, but here goes. I thought Sentenced was and is harder than Tsunami on New Wave. I climbed it a couple of weekends ago and still think it is. Additionally, just because something becomes "easier" for a given climber does not mean the climb is easier. People never seem to conisder they might just be getting stronger. At any rating it is a great climb.

Have not had the chance yet, but I am psyched to get on the new routes down there. Thanks to all of the developers and people maintaining our crags.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Mar 26, 2007
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b

Sorry Luke and as much as I hate to admit it, Jbak is right, the route is 12b. Perhaps the exposure got to you. Or maybe the holds not having tape goofed up your sequence. Just messing with you Luke. If you get on it again I think you might agree with Jbak.

By jbak
Mar 26, 2007
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a

So you hate to see it down-rated ? Or you hate to agree with me ?

Hell I was hoping Luke was right and I'm getting stronger.

By Jimbo
Mar 28, 2007

I think Sentenced to Hang is easier than Tsunami. There are two good rests on Sentenced and no rests on Tsunami.

By jbak
Mar 30, 2007
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a

Jim, the way you hiked it, no wonder you think it's easy.

By Jimbo
Apr 4, 2007

I'm off to Tsumami tomorrow, then I'll give you the true scoop on which is harder. Unless I'm having a bad day, or it's too cold, or too hot, or the wind is blowing...... Stay tuned...

By Jimbo
Apr 6, 2007

OK, Tsunami is definitely a letter grade harder than Sentenced to Hang.
So there you have it.

By Joseph Stover
From: Batesville, AR
Jun 6, 2007

I almost want to say that this route is easier than the start to climb spree (on toprope)! But maybe a lead will change that idea.

By Jimbo
Jun 11, 2007

There isn't a move on Sentenced to Hang that is as hard as the opening moved on Crime Spree. Sentenced gets the 5.12- because it's steep and there are a bunch of 5.11 moves. If you put a bunch more 5.11d moves on Sentenced it would be 5.12c/d. Crime Spree has a hard start but the rest of the climbing is easier than Sentenced.
P.S. You should stop top roping these climbs and start leading them, they are well bolted and you'll be a better climber for it.

By Joseph Stover
From: Batesville, AR
Jun 12, 2007

Yes. I definitely will lead this route next time I am at this wall. So maybe the rating is 11c/d for a toprope hangdog, 12a/b for a redpoint and 12c for a flash! ...and 13a if you do it with your eyes closed!

By iancevans
Dec 3, 2008

This feels easier to me than the Wizard over in Milagrosa, whose consensus grade is 12a. The Wizard is more sustained and has some very difficult clips and its longer and there are a lot of terrible holds (of course, it's less steep and the moves aren't as big). Am I crazy?

Anyway, this is a beautiful line with an exciting technical crux and a (for me) difficult redpoint crux (turning the bulge before the chains).

By Jimbo
Dec 4, 2008

The two climbs are apples and oranges. Sentenced is burly, steep and positive while The Wizard is thin and technical. Sort of depends on what your good at.

By Boodge Nomchompski
Mar 1, 2009
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b

Got on this for the first time today, and liked it so much it's now at the top of my project list. Super fun, lots of variety, and well-bolted.

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 4, 2009
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a

a HUGE congrats to Christian Rodenbeck for his send of this route Oct 31 - his first 5.12!!

By 1Eric Rhicard
Nov 5, 2009
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b

Way to go Christian!

By Myk
From: tucson, az
Jan 1, 2012

Added Mussy hooks to anchors.

By Myk
From: tucson, az
May 4, 2012

Congrats to Clay and Liam for their super smooth Redpoints.
Was surprised when Liam said it was his first 12. They both made it look like a steep 5.9

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
May 6, 2012
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a

Yeah guys!

By dah3586
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 21, 2013
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b

Cliff Rylands sending Sentenced to Hang (5.12b), Prison Camp, Mt. Lemmon, AZ, 22 Sep 2012

www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=SSCZu6qQ-N>>>

Also, we both got on this a month after sending Tsunami and thought it was harder... but maybe we just sucked at bouldering at the time.

Additionally, there is a SWEET rest on the flake on Tsunami just before the crux, if you climb super efficient and milk the rest like we both did I think you'll find that to be ever so slightly easier than Sentenced. Both 12b. Milanoma at the Beach is def 12c, in my opinion.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Mar 22, 2014
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b

New ASCA anchor bolts and the last two original bolts have been replaced with 1/2 inch Rawl 5 piece bolts from the ASCA. The quicklinks and mussys need to be moved down to the new anchor. I didn't have a crescent wrench to loosen the quicklinks on the mussys.