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This is one of the very few bolted routes in the Gunks and is a great warm-up for Never Never Land. The crux is a high-ball boulder problem with gear at your feet.
Start below 3 bolts, 15' left of Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct. You can get great small gear in the second horizontal shelf. From here head up the bolt line, wandering left and right as needed, then up and right to the pine tree.
You'll need a light rack to supplement the 3 bolts.
Above the 2nd bolt on Sente.
At the anchors (tree).
Becky at the first bolt.
At the third bolt.
|By Adam Catalano|
From: Albany, New York
Jul 28, 2006
If you've done this route a few years ago the bolts were pretty mank. I hear the bolts were replaced recently; can anyone confirm?
|By Mike fenice|
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 1, 2006
There are three shiny new bolts that protect this climb.
Sep 3, 2007
At my height (5'7", -2 ape index), there is a 9+ or 10 move *before* placing the first piece of gear - I can't reach the first horizontal with my feet on anything reasonable. This is why I'll never lead this route - that move is a committing highball for me. Other moves on this route seemed reachy as well, and the route is really .... just so-so. Just my $0.02.
From: North Kingstown, RI
Oct 15, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
Fun route. Very un-Gunks like slab climbing. Protects reasonably with #2 Yellow and #3 Orange Metolius doubled up at the first horizontal. Three bolts and a piton above that then one or two larger cams in the easy blocky stuff just before the end.
Oct 29, 2010
Agree with JSH: If less than 5ft 7inch / 170cm, unless have unusually long arms, would have to stand on really dicy crystals or something in order to reach hand up to the horizontal.
That comes before placing the first cam in horizontal, below the first bolt.
(Or else someone post the special beta for non-tall leaders.)
|By S. Neoh|
Oct 31, 2010
I am 5'6" tall with short arms. I led this climb on-sight in 1996 and remembered some balancy but not hard moves before the 1st piece of gear. Sorry, can't say I remember more. I thought the climb was pretty good. I was more nervous leading Pas de Deux!
|By Kevin Heckeler|
From: Upstate New York
Mar 30, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
Awkward moves. Nothing special IMHO.
Apr 26, 2012
Love this climb, great for those who like thin, balancy moves. Dicey first moves until you can get gear in - I'm 5'6" tall and I have to use the slopey ramp as a hold until I can reach the big horizontal. Then three bolts make the hardest section a well protected sport climb - it's very thin here but if you fell, you won't go far. Then the rest is easy trad. Tree has sling anchor on it, so easy to set up top rope from here to TR Sente, and Thin Slabs with a directional.