|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, 400', Grade II|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||Chris Craig and John McCarrol 2003|
|Season:||Winter, spring , or fall|
|Submitted By:||Chris Craig on Jul 18, 2007|
|Restrictions January 1 - April 30 MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Sent To The Office||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
Nov 1, 2008
OK, first of all, kudos for taking the time, and putting in the energy, and dollars for the routes out here. Any new route is better than no new route.
That said, I can't agree with the stars your giving these routes.
We did "Sent to the Office", "Urban Escape" and some version of "Hierarchy or Needs" today. The only pitch that was even close to 3 stars was the last pitch of "Sent to the Office". Fun, steep and the best rock of any pitch we did. All other pitches were either loose, unsustained or a combination of the two.
I applaud, and love, your enthusiasm, but enthusiasm does not equal stars. If I had a dollar for every star I've yanked off a new route the second time I climbed it, I'd could pay someone to drill routes for me.
The "loose" is especially true of the last pitch on "Urban Escape". Very fun climbing, sustained at the grade, but dudes there's loads of loose on that pitch that could take out the belayer. (And there ain't no place to hide on the belay) You need to go up there with a crow bar and spiff it up, a bunch! think 5 feet on both side of the bolts. Then motor over to the other routes and pry some more.
I understand it's a "backcountry" route, and in my 30 years of climbing I've pulled on my share of choss, but in today's world, if your putting up a sport route you need to have sport climbers in mind. 3 stars is a big magnet. 3 stars and bolts is a bigger magnet. If your posting a 3 pitch "3 star" sport route there's some reponsibility involved. Like it or not.
In my opinion ONE STAR is a fair rating on all the routes we did, and only if you like fuzzy routes with loads of flora and a back country feel.
Helmets for the leader and belayer are mandatory here!!
We had neither, but we're cantankerous old guys and nobody would notice if we had a head injury.
I will go back and do "Spritual Renewal" because I do like fuzzy backcountry routes and the last pitch looked killer.
By Chris Craig
Jan 25, 2009
|Been back and did some cleaning up. Hope you like it.|
Jan 28, 2009
|Cool beans, when it warms up a little, and I stop working. I'm there. Thanks Chris.|
By Alex McIntyre
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 22, 2012
Did this yesterday. I think the upper part of pitch 2 is very serious- the climbing through the 70+ foot runout has some nontrivial sections on really bad rock. I thought the movement on this route was cool. We also saw no place for pro on the first pitch, which resulted in my wandering right to clip the last bolt on either Hierarchy or Old School. The last pitch was cool and felt a bit soft for the grade, but there were only 6 bolts (not 7 as stated on here) and the hard section was followed by another chossy 40 foot run to the anchors. The climbing wasn't hard but I almost pulled off a large block on this section
We were also unable to locate the anchors on the top of the second pitch of Hierarchy for the single rope rappel route and decided to go for it and try to rap the 2nd pitch with a 70m rope. It barely did not reach; I had to stop and build an anchor including the first bolt to use as an intermediate station. I had to leave a biner on the bolt to rap, so if anyone is heading up there soon, there is that.
I thought pitches 1 and 2 were stiff for the grade, but the crux was soft. Contrary to the "strenuous move over bulge" description, I found the main difficulty on the last pitch to be the lack of footholds leading up to the bulge. All in all, a good but serious route.
A final note: there was a line of hangerless bolts on the first pitch, leading to the first bolt with a hangar below the green lichen spot. Some mid-size nuts may be useful to clip these if you feel nervous about the high first bolt.