All Locations >
Arizona
> Southern Arizona
> Cochise Stronghold
> E Stronghold
> Rockfellow Group
> Rockfellow Dome
Sensory Desuetude
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British R
Avg: 3.2 from 5 votes
Type: | Trad, 550 ft (167 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | Ray Ringle, Chip Chace, 1980 |
Page Views: | 4,030 total · 24/month |
Shared By: | John Steiger on Feb 21, 2010 |
Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Read this Access Note!
Details
Closure information appears to be in a transition state.
For the latest information, go to this link: fs.usda.gov/recarea/coronad…
Please take note of the request for climbers to avoid disturbing raptors if at all possible.
Self-policing our behavior is MUCH better than an outright ban!
CASA Page on Raptors for more information: theclimbershome.org/breedin…
Douglas Ranger District Tel: 520.364.6816.
For the latest information, go to this link: fs.usda.gov/recarea/coronad…
Please take note of the request for climbers to avoid disturbing raptors if at all possible.
Self-policing our behavior is MUCH better than an outright ban!
CASA Page on Raptors for more information: theclimbershome.org/breedin…
Douglas Ranger District Tel: 520.364.6816.
Description
Superb climbing, outrageous position, and thought-provoking protection mark this RR and Chip Chace creation. These two were on a tear in 1980, making the first ascents of other multi-pitch climbs such as Sound of One Hand Thrashing (5.11c/d R) and Uncarved Block (5.11c/d R) in the Dragoons and Swept Away (5.11c/d) at the Reef of Rock. These were bold first ascents, with the pair launching up steep, often overhanging terrain, knowing that runout climbing likely awaited. This route may not be as difficult as those other 1980 vintage problems, but it is as mentally challenging, particularly the first pitch. We found crack-n-ups to be important when we did it in the early 1980s, but with modern equipment like offsets and microcams, they may not be necessary.
Begin by chimneying up above the Inner Passage corridor until the crack system can be reached on the left wall. Stemming, thin jams, and face climbing lead up the crack (the crux) until possible to step left to another crack and more difficult moves to easier ground. Sling belay from gear. (2) Continue up the crack for a short pitch to a gear belay just past a small overhang on the right (5.9). (3) Climb the crack above, past two small roofs, the first on the right and second on the left. Trust yourself through the crux (5.10d) to easier climbing and a good belay from gear. (4) A short but stout offwidth leads to the top (5.9).
(NB: Bob Kerry's 1997 guide describes the pitches differently (three 5.10+ pitches in a row), and frankly his description likely is straight from RR; the description here is how we broke it up).
Begin by chimneying up above the Inner Passage corridor until the crack system can be reached on the left wall. Stemming, thin jams, and face climbing lead up the crack (the crux) until possible to step left to another crack and more difficult moves to easier ground. Sling belay from gear. (2) Continue up the crack for a short pitch to a gear belay just past a small overhang on the right (5.9). (3) Climb the crack above, past two small roofs, the first on the right and second on the left. Trust yourself through the crux (5.10d) to easier climbing and a good belay from gear. (4) A short but stout offwidth leads to the top (5.9).
(NB: Bob Kerry's 1997 guide describes the pitches differently (three 5.10+ pitches in a row), and frankly his description likely is straight from RR; the description here is how we broke it up).
3 Comments