This aptly named well protected and powerful sport climb is on an overhanging north face about 100' southeast of Fraggle Rock. The face is sculpted with large and deep huecos.
A powerful gaston is necessary between the first and second bolt. The difficulty eases somewhat until the rock between the last bolt to the anchor is encountered; it is very difficult to put the rope through the carabiner on the middle link without grabbing the chain anchor.
Quickdraws for five bolts. A chain anchor spanning two bolts with a wide carabiner on a middle link is at the top.
|By C Miller|
Nov 8, 2003
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a
A fun route, but a little overgraded like some in this area. Located a short distance to the south of Fraggle Rock.
Jul 11, 2010
A decent climb that ends just short of the top and at (as was mentioned) a somewhat contrived spot. Hard moves are right at the bottom. Not nearly as good as the Fraggle Rock routes.