Type: Trad, 465 ft (141 m), 4 pitches
FA: Peter White and Whitney Heurmann ca. 1996
Page Views: 3,663 total · 18/month
Shared By: Brent Roaten on Apr 5, 2007
Admins: Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

On one of my first trips to Looking Glass sans guide book and inexperienced with runout slab climbing, I ran into a local who recommended this new route as a good 5.9. It was the perfect sandbag and quite memorable.
Begin about 50 yards to the right of Sundial Crack. The first 50-60 feet is a sea of unprotectable eyebrows (~5.8) ending on a ledge. I would recommend belaying here but didn't the first time I climbed it resulting in some serious rope drag. Pull over an easy, well protected bulge above the ledge. Veer to the right and follow the path of least resistance to a crack which takes good gear. From the crack, head back slightly left and up towards the anchors. As I recall the last 20 feet is pretty hairy unprotected climbing that left me feeling nauseous. I went for it and to my relief found an unusual "thank god" hold just below the anchors that wasn't visible from below. If you are not a well seasoned Looking Glass slabmaster, I would not recommend this as a first 5.9...or even a second or third for that matter!
Addendum:
Per the guide book the route continues on for another 3 pitches:
P2: 5.9+, 150 ft with a bolted anchor
P3: 5.7, 150 ft also bolted anchor
P4: 5.5, 165 ft; descend as for the nose

Location Suggest change

The route begins about 50 yards to the right of Sundial. The start was rather inobvious and the only real landmarks that I recall are the anchors at the top of the route.

Protection Suggest change

Not much. Bolted Anchors on pitches 1-3. Rap the nose route. Bring an extra pair of shorts.

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