Sensemilia Sunset 

We inadvertently got on this on my first trip to Looking Glass. It became apparhent that I was in over my head when I looked below at the two crappy placements and 30' of runout down to the last piece. Another 30' and one 00 TCU placement found me at the anchors of P1 - shaken. I had never climbied slab or granite. This is all to say that P1 is run out!

After talking to Phil at LGO, it seems the best start is right next to Sundial Crack. Then you should shoot up and right for the scoop. I only learned this after creating my own story, quite similar to the two told here. We started below the slings on the first pitch of this route. That variation and the amount of wandering I would definitely give it an R rating, but Phil says its a lot more tame from the Sundial start. Otherwise, the climbing movement was great on this route! Double TCU's also come in handy.

Did this route again from the recommended start at Sundial Crack. The route was a much better experience the original straight up to the anchors line. The move through the bulge was very exciting and the route is well protected. A single rack with a rack of tri-cams is all that is needed. Started up Sundial and hit the big horizontal. Took this to the right a bit, then bee lined it through the groove in the bulge straight to the anchor. The last moves take some circumventing, but otherwise its a straight line from groove to anchors. The entire route description above is incorrect.

P2 is another good pitch to finish this climb off. If you made it through P1, P2 shouldn't be too much trouble. Start straight up over the anchor and get a piece for your second. Move up and right slightly following the easiest eyebrows that take gear. About 30' up clip the bolt. Start making some friction moves getting a good distance away from the bolt. Find the next piece of gear just left of the bolt line. Plug it and make another small run. Once your getting gear again the angle eases all the way to the anchor. Rap twice straight down.