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Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp
Routes Sorted
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Apprehension T 
Arcane Saw T 
Bitter Route, The T,TR 
Breakfast Of Champions T,TR 
Cabana Boy T 
Candy-O T 
Captain 4Q aka Santa Ana T,TR 
Captain Crunch S 
Clyncke Punched a Hippy T 
Day Dream T,TR 
Dispensary, The T,S 
Eat or be Eaten aka Super Slab Direct aid variation T 
Flakey Floont T,TR 
Flower Quarter T,TR 
Greaser, The T 
Hasting's Cutoff T 
Lemon Line T 
Little Fish that Die Abruptly TR 
Loose Lucy T 
Lucid Dream T 
Micky Mouse Die-Rect T,TR 
Mr. Natural T 
Over 'ed Power Line T 
Phee-nix T 
Pickpocket T,TR 
Quantum Mechanics T 
Real Men Eat Eggs T 
Remention T 
Rough Roof T 
Roving for Love T 
Schizophrenia T 
Senora (??) T,TR 
Senorita T,TR 
Shadow T 
Slimy Spoon, The T 
Strangle Hold T,S 
Sub Slab T 
Suparete T,S 
Super Natural T 
Super Slab Direct Start T 
Tiny Line T 
Toys for Tots T,S 
Unknown 10c aka Quadrille S 
Velvet Arete aka Premonition, The T 
Velvet Hammer T 
Vertical Smile T 
Waking Sleep T 
Wave Rave aka Smoking Gun T 
Zombies on the Lookout T 

Senora (??) 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: ?? M. Brooks and Lisa Wilson, 1982
Page Views: 241
Submitted By: Tony B on Nov 16, 2002

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  • Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>
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  • Description 

    I presume that this is the route [Senora]. It may not be, so I am hoping someone will reveal this if it is not the case. The features as described in The Eldorado Canyon guidebook do not seem to exist at all, so I have taken a stab at it that this is the route intended. After all, it is more or less "25 feet left of Schizophrenia."

    Go up the Redgarden Wall trail from the Streamside trail until a metal ladder takes you up just beside the large boulder against the wall. There is a right-facing dihedral hanging up above you. Continue up the ladder and walk a few feet futher to what appears to be a 25' right-facing dihedral. The left wall of this is vertical and the right wall is quite overhung. This is presumed to be the "short, overhanging handcrack" start to Senora. [Climb] up this by placing a 3.5 camalot up into the good section of crack, make a few stemming moves and set a few small tricams in the "crack." You will eventually move up and left to step out onto a ledge below an inset in the wall, a hanging ledge full of mahonia plants. From there you can move into the right side it and climb up a feature that is nearly a mirror image of the previous half of the climb, but with a better crack. Climb this through the left-facing overhanging crack until you reach a point where the second dihedral comes together to make a crack. Climb the crack to a tree on the [ledge at] the top of the wall and belay there.

    To get back the the base, you can walk to the climber's left (N/NE) along the ledge until it merges with the trail below Rewritten, then down to near the metal ladder again.

    Protection 

    A large cam (3.5-4") plus a few good small tricams (pink-brown) and up higher a few nuts nad small to hand-sized cams.


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