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Seneca Rocks
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Cave, The 
Lower Slabs 
North Peak - West Face 
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South End 
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South Peak - West Face 
Southern Pillar 

Seneca Rocks 


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Lat, Long: 38.8338, -79.3663 Map
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Administrators: Ladd Raine, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Mark Cushman on Sep 19, 2006

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Thunderstorm
73° | 57°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
81° | 55°
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84° | 59°
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79° | 57°

BETA PHOTO: Major Seneca features to aid in locating routes

Description 

Located in the Monongahela National Forest, Seneca Rocks is best known for multi-pitch trad climbs and stiff old-school ratings. The rock is formed from white Tuscarora quartzite, which feels much like sandstone. Bring your helmet since some of the rock can be loose at times. Many moderate routes exist on Senca Rocks, and the wildly exposed summit pinnacle can be obtained by several 5.2-5.5 routes. This makes Seneca a popular destination for trad climbing on the East coast.

Camping can be had at either the Seneca Shadows campground (1 mile east of Senca Rocks on RT 33), or Yokum's Princess Snowbird campground in the town of Seneca Rocks.

Gear and guides can be found at the Gendarme and Seneca Rocks Climbing School or at Seneca Rocks Mountain Guides. Food and beer may be purchased at Harper's Country Store or Yokum's, both located in the town of Seneca Rocks. The Front Porch restaurant, located above Harper's Country Store serves pizza, sandwiches and salads. The restaurant does not serve beer, but you may purchase beer in the store below and bring it upstairs to drink with your meal.


Getting There 

Seneca Rocks is located at the intersection of Route 33 and 55, east of Elkins, WV.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Seneca Rocks:
Gunsight to South Peak   5.3     Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet   South Peak - West Face
Conn's West   5.4     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   South Peak - West Face
Ecstasy Junior   5.4     Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet   South End
Gunsight to South Peak Direct   5.4     Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet   South Peak - West Face
Candy Corner   5.5     Trad, 1 pitch, 95 feet   South End
Traffic Jam   5.7     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   South Peak - West Face
Ecstasy   5.7     Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet   South End
Green Wall   5.7     Trad, 3 pitches   South Peak - West Face
Soler   5.7     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   South Peak - East Face : Upper Broadway
Pleasant Overhangs   5.7     Trad, 3 pitches   South Peak - West Face
West Pole   5.7+     Trad, 1 pitch, 200 feet   South Peak - West Face
Triple S   5.8+     Trad, 2 pitches, 90 feet   South Peak - West Face
Climbin' Punishment   5.9     Trad, 3 pitches, 180 feet   Southern Pillar
Back to the Front   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   South Peak - West Face
Bring on the Nubiles   5.9+ PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet   South Peak - West Face
High Test   5.9+     Trad, 120 feet   South Peak - East Face : Upper Broadway
Castor   5.10a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   South Peak - East Face : Upper Broadway
Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn   5.10a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   South Peak - West Face
Cottonmouth - Venom   5.10b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   South Peak - West Face
Sidewinder   5.11a     Trad, 1 pitch, 140 feet   South Peak - West Face
Browse More Classics in Seneca Rocks

Featured Route For Seneca Rocks
Go left from here.

Gunsight to South Peak Direct 5.4  WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face
From Gunsight Notch, climb the arete towards the South Peak until you are able to move onto the East Face on thin flakes. Climb around the Gryphon's Beak and finish on the regular Gunsight to South Peak route. Great exposure for a 5.4!...[more]   Browse More Classics in WV


Photos of Seneca Rocks Slideshow Add Photo
The West Face of Seneca Rocks

BETA PHOTO: The West Face of Seneca Rocks

Which way down?

Which way down?

Oh, over there... <br /> <br />Gotta love Seneca

BETA PHOTO: Oh, over there...

Gotta love Seneca


Spectacular view from the top.

Spectacular view from the top.

The town of Seneca Rocks

BETA PHOTO: The town of Seneca Rocks

Seneca, West Face. October '07.

Seneca, West Face. October '07.

Seneca Creek in evening fall colors.

Seneca Creek in evening fall colors.

Used car dealership on the east side of Seneca.

Used car dealership on the east side of Seneca.

Inscription carved on the summit block: <br /> <br />D.B. SEPT 16, 1908 <br /> <br />D.B. was a hardman.

Inscription carved on the summit block:

D.B. SEPT...


Routefinding at Seneca can be a challenge, especially in the rain.

Routefinding at Seneca can be a challenge, especia...

This guy lived in the summit register for a few years, he was abducted from the top of Seneca Rocks by aliens.  Anyone have more info or know where the photo came from?

This guy lived in the summit register for a few ye...

Seneca Rocks as seen on foggy fall day.

Seneca Rocks as seen on foggy fall day.

View from behind (east of) Seneca Rocks on North Fork Mountain.

View from behind (east of) Seneca Rocks on North F...

A photo of the Gendarme before it fell. <br /> <br />Photo: Paul Tierney

A photo of the Gendarme before it fell.

Photo: Pa...


Urtiscay Unyanray learns the story of Pollux

Urtiscay Unyanray learns the story of Pollux

The saint, easing up Castor

The saint, easing up Castor

Climbers on the twin cracks of Castor and Pollux

Climbers on the twin cracks of Castor and Pollux

A view of the Southern Pillar from the top of the first pitch of Candy Corner on the South End.

A view of the Southern Pillar from the top of the ...

Great shot of the rocks from the parking lot.Photo taken by Tim Anderson

Great shot of the rocks from the parking lot.Photo...

View of the South End and the Cave as seen from the Southern Pillar

View of the South End and the Cave as seen from th...

Leading on the southpeak-east face.

Leading on the southpeak-east face.

A view of Princess Snowbird Campground from the Gunsight notch.

A view of Princess Snowbird Campground from the Gu...

Top of Green Wall 5.7

Top of Green Wall 5.7

West side of North and South Peaks.

BETA PHOTO: West side of North and South Peaks.

View taken from the East side of Seneca

View taken from the East side of Seneca

Wild flowers (weeds?) in full spring bloom.

Wild flowers (weeds?) in full spring bloom.

Seneca Rocks, WV

Seneca Rocks, WV

West Face from Seneca Shadows

West Face from Seneca Shadows

Seneca Rocks from the meadow at Seneca Shadows on a stormy September morning

Seneca Rocks from the meadow at Seneca Shadows on ...

Fish eye from the summit of the South Peak

Fish eye from the summit of the South Peak

Seneca Rocks

Seneca Rocks

Terrible photo however you can somewhat gauge the scale of the place. Across the way is the Southern Pillar that has some uber classics and the climbers you see are the far South end of South Peaks East Face at the base of Skyline Traverses first pitch. Minimum 4 pitches to the summit from here no matter how you take.

Terrible photo however you can somewhat gauge the ...


Comments on Seneca Rocks Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 17, 2012
By Brian Adzima
From: Pittsburgh
Feb 8, 2007

Steep, sandbagged, and occasionally scary. What's not to like?

By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 3, 2007

For folks heading down to Seneca for the first time:
Don't trust pitons-many were placed during WWII as training and they aren't great placements.
Lots of loose rock!
Wear your helmet.
Be in awe of the voluteers that built The Stairmaster!

By Mark Cushman
From: Cumming, GA
May 3, 2007

About pitons - there are a few new ones here and there, you can tell they are new because the eyes are not rusting off them and aren't completely part of the rock. For example there is a very helpful newer piton on Conn's East at the crux of the second pitch. I'm pretty sure this was a replacement for an old one that was unsafe to clip, however many people clipped it anyway.

By Mark Cushman
From: Cumming, GA
Jun 14, 2007

The 4-U Restaurant is a decent place to get breakfast when climbing at Seneca. The prices are cheap and it's only a few miles south of Seneca Rocks on Route 33.

By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Dec 13, 2007

To read others' stories of Seneca Rocks and to share your personl experiences, check out Seneca Rocks Stories or Tales from Seneca Rocks.

By John Kelbel
From: Eldersburg, Maryland
Feb 17, 2010

A few interesting rules from the National Forest about the Seneca Rocks area. Below is just an abbreviated list from the link at the bottom.

There is No parking on Roy Gap Road.
Bivouacking is only allowed fifty 50 above base of rocks and only on the east face.
No other camping is allowed in the Seneca area except for the established campground.
No Alcoholic, No Fires, No Horses, No Bicycles on any trails.

Just to be clear this only pertains to the small portion of the National forest land considered as the Seneca Rocks Area, see the link for more details, this is where the information came from.

Have fun it's an amazing place.

fs.usda.gov/wps/portal/fsinternet/!ut/p/c4/04_SB8K8xLLM9MSSz>>>

By Mike Anderson
From: Dayton, OH
Oct 19, 2010

Gumbies swarm to this place (multi-star 5.3s are hard to come by), so bring your patience and try not to be too cynical.

By Gini Kramer
Sep 5, 2011

A few things of note...

The 4-U motel & restaurant is closed.
Valley View Restaurant a little further south on Rte. 33 does a decent breakfast.
Hellbender up in Davis serves burritos the size of your head.
Avoid the older section of Yokum's Motel at all costs. Appalachia Cabins, just north of Seneca Rocks, has a row of motel rooms that are much nicer (complete with micro wave, toaster, fridge, and coffee maker) and cost the same.
When they say that the ratings on Seneca Rocks climbs are stiff, they mean it!

By David Cooper
From: Annapolis, MD
Jun 9, 2012

Classic Seven Tour.
After the Hundred Club this is the next best way to spend a long day at Seneca. Best on a weekday or less crowded weekend.

My favorite tour, in order of routes... SJM, Ecstasy, Dufty's, Prune, Crispy Critter, T Jam, West Pole, Pleasant O, Green Wall, Soler, Rox Salt.

Start at sunrise and you should be walking out in time for dinner.

A fantastic way to shake it up a bit if you've been looking for a new Seneca adventure.

By Ted Bjorklund
Oct 28, 2012

Left a pair of la sportiva miuras near the cave entrance...pretty new, size 40. Please send me a message if you found them, or are going there soon.

By Cody Bradford
From: Boone, NC
Nov 13, 2012

Cell phones do not work at Seneca. Might as well keep it at home.
Not the best place to come if you are just beginning in the traditional game. Hard sandbags, tenuous rock, difficult route finding, the list goes on. Hire a guide.
That being said, Seneca is a delightful slice of humble pie and a great alpine training ground during winter months.

By Jonathan Spencer
From: Pearisburg, VA
Dec 17, 2012

Seneca Rocks, WV AMGA SPI Course Dec. 1-3, 2012

.
Here's a video of a course I took at Seneca.