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Apr 29, 2013
Day Lily.
I LOVE Seneca and have many questions about its past, I enjoy visualizing what it would have been like before bolted belays and the stairmaster, etc. Two ill ask here:

Did the Conns free climb Conns East? Any aid?

Was Ecstasy first climbed via free or aid? As a non-aid climber it appears Ecstasy would be difficult (and P2 of Conns East) to aid. I simply just don't know.

I lied, third question: Fritz Weissners route apparently fell away. where exactly was it and is there any part of it existing still? Maybe the start or did it start on a existing line that is still around, etc?

I appreciate your time.
The Stoned Master
From Pennsylvania
Joined Dec 5, 2012
3,666 points
Apr 29, 2013
Hey Stoned,
I know the Conn's didn't put up Conn's West and I *think* I recollect that they didn't put up Conn's East either. That still doesn't answer whether the first ascent was done with some aid but I'm not sure that distinction would have even made sense at the time ya know? Somewhere in the back of my mind I have this idea that the two flakes got named Conn's East and West because the Conn's were always out there scavenging pitons. Could be totally wrong though. I would contact the people at the Gendarme and try to get in touch with its first owner or even further back to see what you could find out if you're REALLY curious.

--Wannabe
Wannabe
Joined Nov 22, 2010
144 points
Apr 29, 2013
Wannabe wrote:
Hey Stoned, I know the Conn's didn't put up Conn's West and I *think* I recollect that they didn't put up Conn's East either. That still doesn't answer whether the first ascent was done with some aid but I'm not sure that distinction would have even made sense at the time ya know? Somewhere in the back of my mind I have this idea that the two flakes got named Conn's East and West because the Conn's were always out there scavenging pitons. Could be totally wrong though. I would contact the people at the Gendarme and try to get in touch with its first owner or even further back to see what you could find out if you're REALLY curious. --Wannabe


This sounds about right. A lot of those early routes at Seneca were first climbed by the 10th Mountain Division during WWII, as training excercises.
JCM
From Seattle, WA
Joined Jun 9, 2008
53 points
Administrator
Apr 29, 2013
Day Lily.
Wannabe and JCM - thanks for the replies. I appreciate your input. There are so many quality climbing destinations that have a comprehensive (relative of course but enough to please me) recording of their history; unfortunately for Seneca (I'm sure the rock doesn't care, I do though) the Army didn't keep notes on all the "haps" that were going on.

Its funny the Conns collected/scavenged pitons back in those days and people to this day go around STILL getting booty from those flakes that "eat gear". I love it. Thanks guys!
The Stoned Master
From Pennsylvania
Joined Dec 5, 2012
3,666 points
Apr 29, 2013
Conn's east first climbed by Pvt. John Stearns, PFC George Kolbuchar,
Sgt. Bob Hecker, and Sgt. Jim Crooks April 28, 1944, reclimbed by
Herb and Jan Conn May 11, 1948.

Regretably, no records can be found of first ascent of this superb
climb except it is believed that it was first led by Joe Faint.

Both from A Climber's Guide to Seneca Rocks West Virginia,
F.R. Robinson, Editor, 1971
Steve Williams
From Denver, CO
Joined Jul 15, 2005
61 points
Administrator
Apr 30, 2013
Day Lily.
Nice! Thanks steve. I wonder why that specific info wasn't put into newer guides? Rhetorical question, its irrelevant. Thanks man! The Stoned Master
From Pennsylvania
Joined Dec 5, 2012
3,666 points
May 3, 2013
I too love Seneca! What a wonderful place.

Don't know if you've seen this website, but even if you have, it's always worth another look: senecarocksmuseum.org/

Cheers
Kirby
From DC
Joined Mar 5, 2010
31 points
Administrator
May 3, 2013
Day Lily.
Kirby, I have been before but honestly just forgot about it. I appreciate the reminder and am cruising the site now. Thank you! The Stoned Master
From Pennsylvania
Joined Dec 5, 2012
3,666 points
Jun 26, 2013
The Weissner route was named "The Buttress Finish" and it was completely destroyed when the entire upper section of the Thais Face fell to the ground. If you are going to climb Thais Direct, you will get an idea of how unstable the rock in that area is. I would not be surprised if one day, the entire roof above Pleasant Overhangs falls down. It's just a matter of time. I hope this answers your question. Oh, and it fell in 1972! climbinbob
Joined Nov 15, 2007
26 points


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