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Seneca history questions
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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Apr 29, 2013
Day Lily.

I LOVE Seneca and have many questions about its past, I enjoy visualizing what it would have been like before bolted belays and the stairmaster, etc. Two ill ask here:

Did the Conns free climb Conns East? Any aid?

Was Ecstasy first climbed via free or aid? As a non-aid climber it appears Ecstasy would be difficult (and P2 of Conns East) to aid. I simply just don't know.

I lied, third question: Fritz Weissners route apparently fell away. where exactly was it and is there any part of it existing still? Maybe the start or did it start on a existing line that is still around, etc?

I appreciate your time.


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By Wannabe
Apr 29, 2013

Hey Stoned,
I know the Conn's didn't put up Conn's West and I *think* I recollect that they didn't put up Conn's East either. That still doesn't answer whether the first ascent was done with some aid but I'm not sure that distinction would have even made sense at the time ya know? Somewhere in the back of my mind I have this idea that the two flakes got named Conn's East and West because the Conn's were always out there scavenging pitons. Could be totally wrong though. I would contact the people at the Gendarme and try to get in touch with its first owner or even further back to see what you could find out if you're REALLY curious.

--Wannabe


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By JCM
From Seattle, WA
Apr 29, 2013

Wannabe wrote:
Hey Stoned, I know the Conn's didn't put up Conn's West and I *think* I recollect that they didn't put up Conn's East either. That still doesn't answer whether the first ascent was done with some aid but I'm not sure that distinction would have even made sense at the time ya know? Somewhere in the back of my mind I have this idea that the two flakes got named Conn's East and West because the Conn's were always out there scavenging pitons. Could be totally wrong though. I would contact the people at the Gendarme and try to get in touch with its first owner or even further back to see what you could find out if you're REALLY curious. --Wannabe


This sounds about right. A lot of those early routes at Seneca were first climbed by the 10th Mountain Division during WWII, as training excercises.


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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Apr 29, 2013
Day Lily.

Wannabe and JCM - thanks for the replies. I appreciate your input. There are so many quality climbing destinations that have a comprehensive (relative of course but enough to please me) recording of their history; unfortunately for Seneca (I'm sure the rock doesn't care, I do though) the Army didn't keep notes on all the "haps" that were going on.

Its funny the Conns collected/scavenged pitons back in those days and people to this day go around STILL getting booty from those flakes that "eat gear". I love it. Thanks guys!


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By Steve Williams
From Denver, CO
Apr 29, 2013

Conn's east first climbed by Pvt. John Stearns, PFC George Kolbuchar,
Sgt. Bob Hecker, and Sgt. Jim Crooks April 28, 1944, reclimbed by
Herb and Jan Conn May 11, 1948.

Regretably, no records can be found of first ascent of this superb
climb except it is believed that it was first led by Joe Faint.

Both from A Climber's Guide to Seneca Rocks West Virginia,
F.R. Robinson, Editor, 1971


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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Apr 30, 2013
Day Lily.

Nice! Thanks steve. I wonder why that specific info wasn't put into newer guides? Rhetorical question, its irrelevant. Thanks man!


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By Kirby
From DC
May 3, 2013

I too love Seneca! What a wonderful place.

Don't know if you've seen this website, but even if you have, it's always worth another look: www.senecarocksmuseum.org/

Cheers


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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
May 3, 2013
Day Lily.

Kirby, I have been before but honestly just forgot about it. I appreciate the reminder and am cruising the site now. Thank you!


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By climbinbob
Jun 26, 2013

The Weissner route was named "The Buttress Finish" and it was completely destroyed when the entire upper section of the Thais Face fell to the ground. If you are going to climb Thais Direct, you will get an idea of how unstable the rock in that area is. I would not be surprised if one day, the entire roof above Pleasant Overhangs falls down. It's just a matter of time. I hope this answers your question. Oh, and it fell in 1972!


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