Sending Data 5.9
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Allison clipping the fifth bolt at the previous cr...
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Description A crux comes off the ground when you overcome the small bulge in the black, lichen-covered rock to positive flakes up past the third bolt. The flakes are thin and possibly dubious. Use your judgment and don't crank super hard if you're worried about the flake's strength.
A thin crux comes right at the fifth bolt leading to fun, juggy climbing past two more bolts to the anchors.
While leading keep an eye on the rope between bolts 2 and 3 so it doesn't go behind the large flake and cause unnecessary rope drag.
The route name is derived from the text that is displayed on-screen when one submits a object to MountainProject.com. Members of the FA party spend a significant amount of time on said website.
Location This is the route just left of Bizarre Ritual. and to the right of Branching Out.
Protection Seven two-tone painted bolts to Fixe Sport Anchors.
When good holds go bad. March 2009.
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By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Jul 13, 2008
rating: 5.9
| Fun route. I thought the crux was off the ground though... |
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 27, 2008
| Hey Daniel, I was back up there recently and would agree with your comment. There used to be a nice block near the start that made for a good foothold but it's now gone and the start is harder. |
By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Dec 23, 2008
rating: 5.9
| Ok that's what I figured; there's an obvious scar in the rock where it looks like a huge hold came loose. The start feels a little harder than anything on 'Stewed Prune'. I really like the second half of the climb - it's like 'Bizarre Ritual' lite. |
By Arthur Sullivan
From: Albuquerque,NM
Mar 22, 2009
rating: 5.9
| Still pretty loose. I had to move pretty quickly to avoid getting beaned by a large hold that came off last time I was there. The start may have been 5.8 at one point, but its solid 5.9 moves off the ground now. |
By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Mar 22, 2009
| Funny, a hold broke off as I was climbing past the second bolt today and it cranked me right in the eyebrow - good gusher, cool pics, and blood on the helmet strap (not gonna wash that off!) |
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Mar 22, 2009
| Thanks for cleaning it up a bit more, Jason. :-) |
By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Jul 7, 2009
rating: 5.9
| This route gets harder every time I get on it. Stuff keeps coming off the start, making it increasingly desperate. I guess it is just the nature of the routes here. |
By Minesh Bacrania
Aug 11, 2009
rating: 5.9
| Yeah, it USED to be an enjoyable 5.8, way back in summer 2007. The 5.9(+?) move at the bottom kind of ruins the character of the route. I guess that's A37 for you. |
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