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Send Money 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 32'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
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Submitted By: Robbovius on Jul 23, 2007
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Description 

This is easyish at the bottom, and then becomes technical and sequency at the crux. There are several variations.

1. start left of middle and climb up the obvious ledges and lips. using smallish and/or awkward holds, balance and reach right for the flake, and step right. Climb easy horizontal handcracks and small feet to the top.

2. start left of middle and begin as 1. Pass flake on the left using small crimps, reach horizontal cracks as before.

3. starting in the middle of the face, climb up the obvious ledges and lips to the blank face. Using various small crimps and awkward feet, pass the right hand and of the flake to the horizontal cracks. Don't bounce a hand from the flake bottom! go straight for the jug! (one 5.9+/5.10- crimp move).


Location 

Halfway along College Rock - between the College Rock Chimney Buttress, and the detached monolith "Steeple" - is a flat veritcal face
with several foot ledges, small lips, and toe ledges across it. Towards the top, just left of center, and below the two topmost horizontal hand cracks, is a noticable flake the splits from the face at the flake bottom.


Protection 

Set TR anchors from cracks in the face of the wall behind the ledge above the climbs, or from trees 20-30 feet back from the face. You could lead it, if you were daring. There's a protectible crack low, and two more near the top, and nothing in between. So, basically, if you lead it, you're freesoloing up to the top cracks. "The leader must not fall", as they say. Have fun!



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