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BETA PHOTO: Thin crack.
The route starts with a lieback, then move to a finger crack about 12 feet off of the deck. This is really your first option to place pro unless you bring micronuts, and getting up to crack is the crux of the climb (I fell twice on a #4 BD micronut). After you get established in the crack it gets a little thin, but there's good stances all the way up. Back boulder is off (if you can even reach it). Shares anchors with Turtle Piss off to the left. TR works fine with this one, but a directional piece is a must if you are going to do this. Send it!
Northeast side of the Y-Crack boulder. It is the thin right leaning crack just to the right of Jam on Jam.
Small; 1 micronut, .5"-1.5"
|By Trad Nanny|
Jan 15, 2013
A boulder problem to a jug and great gear.