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AC/DC Wall
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Send For The Man 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: P1, Christian Knight, March 2008, P2 Aaron Child, April 2008
Page Views: 1,380
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Mar 30, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Lee Jensen starting the first pitch of Send For Th...

Description 

A very enjoyable, two-pitch climb.

P1 (60', 5.7) A fun, interesting pitch on good feet and positive handholds through very good quality rock. Start on a small ledge and climb low-angled terrain through the first bolt to a short headwall. A fun move or two to get past the steep bit, clip a bolt, and then bear left.

Climb a steeper section through three bolts on good holds, and then continue on somewhat lowered angled rock to the anchors.

P2 (80', 5.10a) Climb up and left from the anchor past two bolts to an overhanging v-slot. Clip the bolt under the intimidating overhang with a longer draw and get established via positive handholds and small footholds. Fun stemming and liebacking moves.

Continue up on large handholds to another intimidating overhang with rounded, rough-textured handholds. Another series of really fun, big moves surmounts this feature. Continue up and over the last small overhang and look left and back for the chain anchors.

Walk off north (quick and easy) or two single rope rappels.

Location 

Counting from the route in the left black streak, this is the fourth route from the left.

Protection 

P1 7 bolts, hangers-and-rings anchors (shared with Shot Down in Flames to the left).

P2 9 bolts, chain anchors (facing away from the gully, located over your left shoulder as you reach the top of the climb).

Rope drag is heavy when toproping or lowering off the first pitch. Bring something to extend the anchors and be prepared to abrade your rope.

Bring a couple of slings or longer draws for both the first and second pitches.


Photos of Send For The Man Slideshow Add Photo
Taisha & Danny making some great progress!
Taisha & Danny making some great progress!
Lee Jensen on the first pitch of Send For The Man.
Lee Jensen on the first pitch of Send For The Man.
Taisha Sommers Leading the first pitch
Taisha Sommers Leading the first pitch
Tristan Higbee just past the crux on the second pi...
Tristan Higbee just past the crux on the second pi...
Taisha pulling the last couple of moves - A huge t...
Taisha pulling the last couple of moves - A huge t...

Comments on Send For The Man Add Comment
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By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Apr 18, 2008

In keeping with the AC/DC theme, Christian renamed this route from Chester Molester.
By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
May 5, 2008

Updated the description and the number of stars to from two to three after climbing the second pitch.
By Darren Knezek
May 15, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I think that the first pitch on this one is one of the better 5.7's in RC compared to the other 5.7's that are dead vertical and not a slab. Wild 2nd pitch that climbs thru every type of Tintic Quartzite you've seen on this side of the canyon.
By Bad Sock Puppet
Jun 22, 2008

Loose rock, so it might be a good idea for the belayer to wear a helmet. Easy climbing, but you'd break your shins if you were to fall. From anchors at the 1st pitch, veer left to bolt below a large crack. Start in lieback, working up, then start stemming to get over the top. Look carefully for the bolts after this part, as they weren't obvious to spot. A few runners would be very good to cut down on the rope drag. Easy rap down.
By Lee Jensen
Jul 5, 2008

If you do both pitches the walk off is the way to go. Just head left towards the gulley and you will be down in half the time of the raps.
By Tristan Higbee
From: Cambodia
Nov 17, 2008

Did the first pitch of this one over the weekend, right after doing Stolen Thunder (5.8). I thought this was harder than Stolen Thunder. Definitely more sustained, at least. Fun route on great rock! Second pitch looks rad... Will have to get on that some time.
By Tristan Higbee
From: Cambodia
Aug 22, 2009

Went back and did the second pitch today. Wow! It's awesome!! Great rock and really fun moves. Felt like an easy 5.10a. I will definitely come back and do this route again! Three big stars and I might even give it a fourth... The rock on the second pitch reminded me of the Uintas: really good, black and tan, grainy quartzite. We rapped down and it worked out fine.

And the great first pitch felt like 5.7 this time, not 5.8.
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Aug 23, 2009

Not sure why I can't give this route the 4th star...
Both pitches are really fun with good rock and fun exposure.
For pitch 2 I would clip slings into the bolts to calm rope drag down.
By Tyson Taylor
Mar 18, 2011

Being drenched by melting ice made for a super slick crux section(mid March). The route was still great despite the water. Bring lots of slings. Probably a bit safer when the water isn't flowing. Be careful at the top when coming off the bolts to the walk off. They anchor is in a great spot but somewhat hidden.