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Start in the bowl below Lunatic. 4th class it out left until in cracks below the pillar, then work these up until you can follow the steep splitter crack up and around the right side of it. Once on the pillar, follow the two bolts to the anchor of Lunatic.
Notes on the first ascent: I rapped in to remove a large rotten block that sat just after the horizontal layback section. Not having a large enough brush, the large flat ledge and surrounding holds that were left behind remained fairly sandy. The crack itself was flashed after this cleaning, clocking in at about 10c. Aside from the four foot section that had to be cleaned, the rock is solid, and climbs as good as it looks.
I had already climbed the two bolts off the pillar as part of the route Summer Vacation. Thus, me linking the Semantics crack into this route was not a flash proper.
All in all cool route requiring a variety of techniques: stemming, jams, laybacking, and steep face climbing, all in one 95 foot chunk of stone.
Single rack to 3", double 1"-3" if you really want to sew it up. Two bolts. Bolted anchor.
|By Michael Kimm|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Feb 18, 2014
Saw a second ascent 2/17/14. Nice job Bob!
Bob told me he though the route was solid 5.11. I don't know if I agree with him, but there it is. A second opinion for anyone that wants it. Still a very worthwhile and varied climb!