|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 60'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]|
|Submitted By:||Dmitry Zv on May 30, 2012|
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|Comments on Self Preservation Variation||Add Comment|
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By another Chad
Nov 4, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Why doesn't the super-traversing extension to Toy Blocks (Self Preservation) get more attention? It's unusual, fun, pure and very easy to protect. Oh yeah, if anyone is climbing Earth Boys, Ring of Fire, Hesitation Blues, Blue Balls, Child's Play, or Toys In The Attic then you are going to be in the way climbing Self Preservation. OK, so that explains some of this climb's obscurity. If you ever see this popular little section of wall without climbers on it, try Self Preservation; you may not have a lot of opportunities.
Gear for me was a set of nuts, C4 #0.5 to #3 and doubles on the #1 and #2. Course there's a lot of ways to protect this climb and it takes gear very well.