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Self-belaying on one or more fixed lines

Original Post
Orphaned · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 11,560

Any ideas or thoughts about this practice? (And don't say: get a partner, because for some of us, it's not an option. Nobody wants to climb.)

In the past, I've setup a rapel with a prusik above it, then reversed the rapel as I went up. It's tedious, but doable. For redundancy, I put a Petzl shunt above the prusik. It's easy to slide, but it won't save you in a fall if you grab it.

On another day I made a rope ladder. I would use two lanyards so that one can always be clipped while passing knots. My setup avoided the problem given in the following link...

petzl.com/en/outdoor/produc…

...of requiring the climber to temporarily hold the weight of the rope below, because the lanyards were clipped into the rope, not into loops tied in the rope, so they can slide upward on their own. At periodic points, the two fixed lines are tied together, creating large continuous "loops" in the rope. One problem with this is that the carabiners wouldn't necessarily be loaded properly in a fall.

Yeah, I'm probably going to die. In my defense, I've only expirimented on very easy and low-angled climbs.

Thoughts about fixed rope soloing?

Bill M · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 317

I like to use a mini traxion

J. Broussard · · CordryCorner · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 50

There are a zillion thread here about this very topic.

But this is exactly what I bought ascenders for.
Put a nice long sling between you and an ascender (or two) and enjoy free climbing.

Lot's of folks use a mini traction or silent partner, but I really enjoy more freedom from the rope than they allow.

Don't forget, UR GONNA DIE

EDIT: also don't forget to weight the rope slightly. Tying your bag so that way it hangs just above the ground. Or just coil and suspend about 10 flakes of rope.

Ryan Nevius · · Perchtoldsdorf, AT · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 1,837

Please use the search function on this site. Also, the Petzl guide should be more than adequate for getting started. Re-inventing the wheel isn't usually the best idea.

Ryan Nevius · · Perchtoldsdorf, AT · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 1,837

Question Closed as Duplicate

This question has been asked before and already has an answer. If those answers do not fully address your question, please edit this question to explain how it is different or ask a new question.

...Sometimes, I think we need a StackOverflow-esque system like this.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
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