Self Belay Using Reverso 4
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Hello Mountain Project Community! I'm new so I'll introduce my self. I'm am a 26 year young male. The biggest passion in life is rock climbing. I've been doing it for about five years, not to long, and have had a blast every time I'm out. I've started top-roping, then to lead, and learning trad. I am really into being as safe as possible when climbing which brings me to why I am posting a new topic. |
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Sure it would work, but talk about a pain in the neck... |
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Taylor Ogden wrote:Sure it would work, but talk about a pain in the neck...Yeah, simply not the way to go. If you want to TR self belay, look into other setups. |
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Check out brasovia.com ushba ascender copies ( get 2) ive only used ushba but these look spot on and will work like a charm for tr soloing they work by bending the rope instead of teeth and they just go with you when you climb |
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John Wilder wrote:In guide mode and not in atc mode, i guess. sure wouldnt want to take a fall on it as the braking friction is supplied by the rope being rubbed against itself. any fall you did take would, at a minimum, give you a glazed sheath and at a maximum, a core shot (or worse). i think that, at a minimum, your backup knots should be tied on a separate line if you choose to use this system. Isn't that what the device was designed for? I wouldn't think that it would do that if it were set up in normal reverso mode when belaying someone from the top. If I were to use a separate rope for my backup knots what is the best way that you think would work? |
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YuenglingTrad wrote:I also have read tons of posts where they start off by talking about self-belay with a Reverso...Hmmm, I've seen maybe two "start off by talking about self-belay with a Reverso" and this is the second one. And when you say "self belay" I hope you mean TR soloing vs. free, lead rope soloing. Regardless, there is a reason "it always gets sidetracked", that's because we're always trying to keep folks uninjured and alive so please consider the possibility it might be best to heed that advice. In fact, when you see folks again and again suggesting any xyz technique isn't the way to go, there's generally some pretty sound reasoning around why that is. |
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you'll get more burned out belaying yourself than climbing....seriously |
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YuenglingTrad wrote: Before you go on about how it is dangerous not to have a partner, or how dangerous it is to self belay, I know, I've read tons and tons of other people's experiences of this matter.It would be hypocritical for people who do it to tell you not to do it. You want advice from those of us who actually do this regularly. Not from people who have never done it and jump in to give you the full benefit of their inexperience. YuenglingTrad wrote: I also have read tons of posts where they start off by talking about self-belay with a Reverso, but it always gets sidetracked by individuals suggesting a Petzl mini-traxion, a modified Grigri, or something of the sort.There are reasons for that. I might use a Reverso or ATC-Guide to ascend the rope. But I'd never use either of those to self-belay. YuenglingTrad wrote:I don't have a problem purchasing any of these devices, but I would like to know if anyone has any experience or thoughts about using a Reverso while on self-belay.Besides don't do it? Be safe(er). Get a device that's a better fit for what you want to do. It's going to be a PITA to climb with the setup you describe. My personal choice is to use a Gibbs Ascender that I tie directly to my harness with three passes of 7mm cord and a EDK on the tails. I like having a "soft" connection where I don't worry about crossloading a carabiner. You cannot do that with some other ascenders. Other people have other methods that are equally valid. You say you've done the research. My advice would be to get a device based on your research. You'll enjoy the solo climbing much more if you don't have to futz with the Reverso. |
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Healyje wrote: Hmmm, I've seen maybe two "start off by talking about self-belay wih a Reverso" and this is the second one. And when you say "self belay" I hope you mean TR soloing vs. free, lead rope soloing. Regardless, there is a reason "it always gets sidetracked", that's because we're always trying to keep folks uninjured and alive so please consider the possibility it might be best to heed that advice. In fact, when you see folks again and again suggesting any xyz technique isn't the way to go, there's generally some pretty sound reasoning around why that is.I do mean top-rope soloing. I do appreciate the advice, I think that there are way too many people that under educated in climbing out there not asking questions that get hurt. This is not my preference, I like having a partner, but I like to learn different techniques with the gear that I have incase I were to need it. |
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It totaly doable to a TR solo with a reverso, but it sucks balls. it feeds like crap and its more work than you would really want to do. You have to climb a bit than pull the rope through, climb pull, climb pull and it is a lot of work. |
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I hate to admit it but I have actually used an ATC Guide for top rope self-belay. I used it in a inefficient, potentially dangerous way that I won't describe. You can see the method described here for self-belay lead mountainz.co.nz/content/art… For self belay top rope it works the same way, the difference being the anchor is above you instead of at the base of the route. WARNING!!Use of any roped climbing system (particularly the knot and rope top rope self belay system described here) can expose you to potentially lethal fall forces. Unless you have a thorough understanding of the concept of fall factor, and how to control it in a roped climbing system STICK TO BOULDERING!Most of the time I don't use any device, that way I can down climb (and re-climb as many times as I want) the route without having to stop, great aerobic workout! Sometimes I pre-tie the knots (if you do that on slab the rope gets abraded where the knots contact the rock). When I'm working on a red-point I tie the knots on the go (one handed AlpineButterfly) when I can do a route this way I know I'm ready to find a belayer and go for the lead. For my lanyard I use about seven feet of dynamic climbing rope (I cut it from clean sections of the ropes I ruined with my Mini-Traxion). I tie the middle of the rope section to my harness with a Bowline on a Bight (you can use a figure eight re-thread, it's just a little tricky to tie in this situation). I secure locking carabiners (Twist locks that can be operated with one hand and key-lock noses are nice) to both ends with a Double Fisherman's loop knot. This also makes a superb PAS system (if you're into that sort of thing). My two cents? Skip the device and climb the knotted rope for a while (Tie your rope in half and keep another strand for rapping off or jugging up if needed). Once you get this dialed in try whatever device you like on the other strand, just realize it's a convenience device and your true belay is coming from the rope you are clipped into. |
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Thank you for all of the info on this topic! |
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Hello all!
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Rather than figure 8's on your backup line, you should use an Alpine Butterfly, the figure 8's aren't meant for that kind of loading. |
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YuenglingTrad wrote:....which brings me to another question. Those of you that do this sort of thing including GriGris or any self-belay device, do you worry about high fall factors? I was, especially really close to the anchors (I never fell near the top). Do you retire ropes quicker than if you were not soloing?I'm not clear on what you mean by "a static (on a dynamic rope) line" I don't worry about high fall factors. Typically, I tie the rope to an anchor far back from the edge and pad it. By the time I get to the top there is still rope going to the anchor. Since I tie my ascender in very close to my harness, there's not much chance for a high FF anyway. I do not retire ropes quicker. Typically, I use a rope that I've retired from leading and just TR on. - Bill |
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Larry S wrote:Rather than figure 8's on your backup line, you should use an Alpine Butterfly, the figure 8's aren't meant for that kind of loading.No? Perhaps you should tie into your harness with an Alpine Butterfly? |
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wivanoff wrote: No? Perhaps you should tie into your harness with an Alpine Butterfly?The figure 8 can capsize when the tails are pulled opposite directions, which is what happens when you've got a bunch of them tied going up the rope, that's the reason it not used to join rappel ropes. It won't kill you in this situation, but you might get some unwanted extension. The alpine butterfly is a better knot in this situation, it's meant to have the tails pulled apart. |
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Larry S wrote: The figure 8 can capsize when the tails are pulled opposite directions, which is what happens when you've got a bunch of them tied going up the rope, that's the reason it not used to join rappel ropes. It won't kill you in this situation, but you might get some unwanted extension. The alpine butterfly is a better knot in this situation, it's meant to have the tails pulled apart.Yeah, you're right. Until you posted that, I was thinking inline Figure 8 for this application. |
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wivanoff wrote: Yeah, you're right. Until you posted that, I was thinking inline Figure 8 for this application.Yeah, the inline figure 8 works too, haven't seen too many people use that one though. For reference: Inline figure 8 And Alpine Butterfly |
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Larry S wrote:Rather than figure 8's on your backup line, you should use an Alpine Butterfly, the figure 8's aren't meant for that kind of loading.The figure eights are fine, the ends are not getting pulled apart like you think. There is only one side of the rope getting loaded both at the anchor and on the back up line if I were to use it. wivanoff wrote:I'm not clear on what you mean by "a static (on a dynamic rope) lineThere is a figure eight on a bite at the anchor to prevent the rope from traveling through the carabineer. So there are two lines hanging from the anchor that can not move (Static). The rope is a dynamic. sorry the pic isn't all that great. |
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YuenglingTrad wrote: The figure eights are fine, the ends are not getting pulled apart like you think. There is only one side of the rope getting loaded both at the anchor and on the back up line if I were to use it.I think you missed the point. Both strands of rope coming out of the figure eight on a bight are getting pulled apart on all the ones above the one you are hanging on (if you end up hanging on one of the backup knots). Like he said, it's not a big deal, but you should understand the concept. |