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Mar 9, 2013
Gear
Self Arrest Fail

That`ll ruin your day
RockinOut
From NY, NY
Joined May 8, 2010
101 points
Mar 9, 2013
Obi Wan Ryobi - Darth Vader Crag, Rumney NH
Yikes. Self arrest course time?

In any case, glad he's okay (physically) and didn't catch a crampon and do unthinkable things to his legs.
Brendan Blanchard
From Boulder, CO
Joined Oct 18, 2010
310 points
Mar 9, 2013
Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Pea...
How the hell does he go from two tools in to slipping down the couloir? He doesn't need a self-arrest course but rather a how to climb course. Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Joined Jan 1, 2001
1,496 points
Mar 9, 2013
By Rap Rings
That looked pretty painful! ZackBay
Joined Jan 25, 2013
10 points
Mar 9, 2013
Obi Wan Ryobi - Darth Vader Crag, Rumney NH
Stich wrote:
How the hell does he go from two tools in to slipping down the couloir? He doesn't need a self-arrest course but rather a how to climb course.


You did see the block of ice hit him from above right? Granted, he still should have held on to a tool, also, they had leashes? What good they did...
Brendan Blanchard
From Boulder, CO
Joined Oct 18, 2010
310 points
Mar 9, 2013
A thread about this video already was posted yesterday.
mountainproject.com/v/ouch/108...
Josh.Wood
From New York City
Joined Apr 6, 2012
55 points
Mar 9, 2013
Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Pea...
Brendan Blanchard wrote:
You did see the block of ice hit him from above right? Granted, he still should have held on to a tool, also, they had leashes? What good they did...


I saw it the second time through. Every time I have had rocks fall on me while climbing, I have either hunkered down or in one case belaying just stepped aside. I never tried to catch the thing. I mean, what the hell was this guy thinking? He's way sketchy.

It looks like his leashes aren't adjusted properly, ie. they are too long to do any good. The leash should be tight with your hand right on the grip so that you can, you know, hold on to the fucking tool.
Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Joined Jan 1, 2001
1,496 points
Mar 9, 2013
Mountain Bandito
My Guess is.... Pubic ramus fracture of the pelvis, R knee ACL/MCL/LCL/PCL, night stick fracture (ulna), TBI , grade 3 kidney laceration and lots of contusions. I hope the guy is OK and has a full recovery!

Does anyone know where that route is?
Taylor-B.
From CO & AK
Joined Oct 20, 2009
2,800 points
Mar 10, 2013
Maybe, but the inner child is saying: "Yeah mate, is that all you got, bitch!?!" Buff Johnson
Joined Dec 19, 2005
1,499 points
Mar 10, 2013
Gear
I wonder what the final outcome was and how they got down RockinOut
From NY, NY
Joined May 8, 2010
101 points
Mar 10, 2013
RockinOut wrote:
I wonder . . . how they got down


They? I didn't see any evidence of a "they" or a "them." If that's correct, that's likely the central issue. A partner, rope, belay and a couple ice screws or other pro would have modified the outcome enough to make an uninteresting video.

Taylor-B. wrote:
My Guess is.... TBI

Assuming, of course, it was present to begin with.

It's hilarious how the first thing this guy checks after he stops pinballing down the gully is the integrity of his helmet cam.
TWK
Joined Sep 15, 2012
164 points
Mar 10, 2013
Bomber Clifton Santiago
Joined Apr 22, 2010
0 points
Mar 10, 2013
Bouldering at Stanage Edge, England.
This was in Snowdonia, Wales on Parsley Fern Gully (Left Hand) a little over two weeks ago. The climber involved was dazed by the piece of ice that hit him on the head, he has one chipped ankle and one broken one, otherwise OK.

RockinOut wrote:
I wonder what the final outcome was and how they got down


Fortunately, we have a world class mountain rescue service in this country. Mountain rescue were on scene within 30 minutes and a Royal Navy helicopter winched him off shortly after.
Rob Lilley
From Greensboro, NC
Joined Apr 30, 2012
129 points
Mar 10, 2013
Just wondering, who footed (no pun intended) the bill for the chopper flight, and, was this guy free soloing? TWK
Joined Sep 15, 2012
164 points
Mar 10, 2013
yaak crack Red Rock Canyon, NV
TWK wrote:
It's hilarious how the first thing this guy checks after he stops pinballing down the gully is the integrity of his helmet cam.


I was thinking the exact same thing.
Jon Zucco
From Denver, CO
Joined Aug 15, 2008
357 points
Mar 10, 2013
Cold day at Smug's
TWK wrote:
Just wondering, who footed (no pun intended) the bill for the chopper flight, and, was this guy free soloing?

As opposed to what? He is clearly soloing. There is no rope. He's not aiding (unless you consider axes to be aid), so by definition it would appear that he is free soloing. I suppose he could be soloing with a partner that is also soloing, but that would still be free soloing.
csproul
From Davis, CA
Joined Dec 3, 2009
214 points
Mar 10, 2013
Rob Lilley wrote:
The climber involved was dazed by the piece of ice that hit him on the head . . .


Hand. He must have meant "hit him on the hand."

Although I'm sure he told the Medivacs it hit him on the head.
TWK
Joined Sep 15, 2012
164 points
Mar 10, 2013
csproul wrote:
As opposed to what? He is clearly soloing. There is no rope. He's not aiding (unless you consider axes to be aid), so by definition it would appear that he is free soloing. I suppose he could be soloing with a partner that is also soloing, but that would still be free soloing.

Yeah, although it looked to me like he was soloing, I was just checking to see if anyone might have seen him trailing a rope in that video clip. From the POV of the helmet cam, I thought it might be possible he was high on a rope with no pro in. Thought maybe he might have stopped after a full rope length--didn't really see any other reason his slide stopped!

Just trying to give him a break--oh, wait--bad choice of words.
TWK
Joined Sep 15, 2012
164 points
Administrator
Mar 10, 2013
El Chorro
TWK wrote:
Just wondering, who footed (no pun intended) the bill for the chopper flight, and, was this guy free soloing?


Mountain Rescue service is "free" in the UK, as is the healthcare this guy received. The rescue team was likely made up of volunteers, and our taxes and National Insurance contributions pay the rest.
Ryan Williams
From London (sort of)
Joined May 10, 2009
1,468 points
Mar 10, 2013
Ryan Williams wrote:
Mountain Rescue service is "free" in the UK, as is the healthcare this guy received. The rescue team was likely made up of volunteers, and our taxes and National Insurance contributions pay the rest.

What is unclear in the video, and perhaps crucial to understanding this accident is, did his monocle fail? If so, who pays for that?
matt davies
Joined Mar 9, 2007
25 points
Mar 10, 2013
Axes are like transcievers these days, Everyone owns them but no one knows how to use them, and no one wants to take the time to learn how. JPVallone
Joined Aug 25, 2004
199 points
Mar 10, 2013
About half way up the East Arete on Illumination R...
All you guys that have made fun or criticized- who the fuck do you think you are? You sit there in your shitty little chair at your shitty little computer in your shitty little Prana capris in your shitty little dorm, occasionally getting out to climb some shitty sea-level bolted rock. Who the fuck do you think you are? You seriously think, at your shitty little 22 years of age, you have something enlightening to add to this conversation?

You don't.

Do some fucking homework. Grow the fuck up.
Ben Beckerich
From saint helens, oregon
Joined Jun 24, 2011
266 points
Mar 10, 2013
Gear
I figured they were climbing in a pair, with someone above him. The terrain looked like they wouldnt need to be roped up...in order to move fast. In the very first few seconds of the video it looked like snow and ice were kicked down on him, followed a few seconds later by that chunk of ice. RockinOut
From NY, NY
Joined May 8, 2010
101 points
Mar 10, 2013
Ben Beckerich wrote:
All you guys that have made fun or criticized- who the fuck do you think you are? You sit there in your shitty little chair at your shitty little computer in your shitty little Prana capris in your shitty little dorm, occasionally getting out to climb some shitty sea-level bolted rock. Who the fuck do you think you are? You seriously think, at your shitty little 22 years of age, you have something enlightening to add to this conversation? You don't. Do some fucking homework. Grow the fuck up.


UhOh--somebody's going taco!
TWK
Joined Sep 15, 2012
164 points
Mar 10, 2013
Oh, so now we need your approval to post? Should we submit a resume? Financial statement? TWK
Joined Sep 15, 2012
164 points
Mar 10, 2013
matt davies wrote:
What is unclear in the video, and perhaps crucial to understanding this accident is, did his monocle fail? If so, who pays for that?


I hope the poor bloke didn't bloody well spill his tea!
TWK
Joined Sep 15, 2012
164 points


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