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Midway Rock
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Dauntless S 
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Diagonal Right T 
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Flight Deck T 
Goony Dunes S 
Self Abuse T 
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Urchins Ate the Coral S 
Wish it Was a Palm Tree S 

Self Abuse 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Royal Robbins
Page Views: 2,241
Submitted By: Colonel Mustard on Feb 6, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Self Abuse

Description 

Put away the old flogging whip and pay the penance for your sinful ways on Self Abuse instead. This flaring maw of a crack starts with some sharp finger locks you will combine with lower body slab and chimney techniques to surmount. The hand jams following this bouldery crux section quickly lead to the flaring squeeze chimney you will grow to know, and, well, probably hate.

If the reason for this climb's name has not become apparent to you at some point during the squeeze, your technique is more dialed than mine. Caution is required, however, for there is some hollow rock as well as untrustworthy flakes inside the crack, but solid protection can be found. And remember to say hi to the alligator lizard as you pass, it is mellow and doesn't seem bitey.

Location 

The obvious O'Keeffe-esque crack on the South face of Midway Rock.

Protection 

1" - 3" says the guidebook. #1-#4 Camalots will probably make you happy. 2 bolt anchor.


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Photo: James Sullivan
Photo: James Sullivan

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By 213blc
From: THA WEST COAST
Apr 11, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

We installed two fine new quicklinks on the lower set of bolts yesterday (4/10); I have the old quicklink/biner if you'd like them back. Best way to setup TR is have two people go to top, one raps down to lower anchor, pulls ropes and sets up anchor, then raps to ground while other person cleans top anchor and walks back around. You may be able to just rap off Flight Deck anchors as well.

Ze Lizard of WYDE and his family are still chillin, though the slug was nowhere to be found.

First climb I have done where one arm smells like a pond afterwards! Great fun. Pulled small flake off near top, so be wary. And do your physics homework before belaying!
By TradladReno
From: South Lake Tahoe, Ca
Feb 25, 2015

Definitely did not find a lower set of anchors. Led it two days ago and end up running it out from the off width all the way to the top anchors (easy 4th with one chimney section on top). Definitely did not want to do the runout face to the bolt due to a huge fall potential. Set up a TR from top anchors with some descent rope drag. Grunting and suffering are two great techniques to get you through the crux parts.
By TradladReno
From: South Lake Tahoe, Ca
Feb 25, 2015

Also, 2 #4s will definitely make you feel much mo' betta.
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