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 ADVANCED
Hawk-Eagle Ridge
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anthurium S 
ATC T 
Body Lice TR 
Bold Finger T,TR 
Bowling Alley T 
Brother Jug T 
Central Park T 
Cinch Crack T 
Comeback Arete, The T 
Crab, The T 
Cracker Jack T 
Dead Left T 
Death Card (aka Ace of Spades) T 
Devo T 
Die Heeda Rule T 
Emergency Brake T 
Grim Reaper T 
Grubble Gully T 
Hangman, The T 
Heart of Gold S 
Heva TR 
Hooker T 
I've Been Sick T 
Inflorescence S 
January Playmate T 
January Rush T 
Larch, The T 
Leapfrog T,TR 
Lips Like Sugar S 
Low Profile TR 
Nails to Nowhere T 
Nobody's Home T 
Pepe le Peu T 
Peter's Out T 
Peters Out - Roof Variation T 
Plinth T,TR 
Prime Time Climb T 
Resisting Arete T,TR 
Roof's Way T 
Rupee Dog Route T,TR 
Rush Buick T 
Russian Arete T 
Self Abuse T 
Shallow Grave T 
Siberian Khatru T,TR 
Slide, The T 
Squeamish, The T,TR 
Stay Hungry T 
Stranglehold T 
Tombstone T 
Uninspiring Wall T 
W 
Walk About T 
Werner Brothers' Roof T 
You'll Poke Your Eye Out T 

Self Abuse 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Season: Faces SW.
Page Views: 599
Submitted By: Tony B on Aug 7, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Tony Bubb on Self Abuse 5.10c/d, at Hawk-Eagle Rid...

Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The route lies about 1/2 way up Hawk Eagle Ridge. It is an obvious right-facing dihedral capped by a large roof. The single-pitch line may not be worthy of a trip to the crag alone, but if you want to also do Die Heeda Rule (5.11) Brother Jug (5.10a), and Tombstone (5.11a) among others nearby, it is a worthy day. You will find the climbing at the crux to be powerful and gymnastic, and probably only 5.10 if you have large hands.

Protection 

The protection is standard, with the crux being just above a large-hand or even fist-sized camming unit.


Comments on Self Abuse Add Comment
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By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Jan 15, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

What a great roof! Lots of fun. The dihedral is a little overgrown with vegetation, but the roof itself was [awesome]!
By matt buckner
From: boulder
Apr 16, 2008

This is a good roof with good foot holds and good hand jams.
Also, if you want to add a good hand crack to the beginning of the pitch, you can do the first part of January Playmate and traverse over under the roof to link up to the Self Abuse roof.
There is a horn/block at the top of the roof that we rappeled off to get down.
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 14, 2010

My self esteem has been restored after seeing the rating of this climb on Mountain Project. The Steve Levin guide calls this 10a, and we thought it would be a good start of the season climb. After 2 or 3 hangs at the lip I got it, and the moves seemed reasonable, but to onsight it seemed pretty hard. Rossiter calls this 10b/c. If you are short this could be really hard since you might not be able to reach from the giant foothold out left to the crack in the roof.
By Clint Locks
From: Boulder
Feb 19, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I definitely suggest starting with January Playmate and traversing into the roof from that route.
By Kevin Presley
From: Loveland
Jan 26, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Fun climbing, always have gear at or above your head. Save a #3 Camalot for the exit move.