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South Fork
Routes Sorted
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"ET" Extremely Tough Slab S 
Altered States T 
Arete Sport Climb T 
Center Route T 
Expecting T 
Fred Beckey T 
Hall of Smears S 
High Noon S 
Hueco 2nd Pitch S 
Hueco Direct Start T 
Hueco Traverse S 
I Stab Ourselves S 
Last Rites T 
Pins and Needles S 
Pulp Friction S 
Sand Surfin' S 
Self Abuse S 
Shotgun T 
Southern Comfort T 
Spiderfinger T 
Tail Of The Cock T 
Tango T 
Touch Me Fall T 
Xanadu T 
Yahweh T 
Unsorted Routes:

Self Abuse 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
Page Views: 3,463
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Oct 21, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


Across from the dramatic, overhanging, tiger-striped wall that contains "Namaste" is a beautiful grey slab. This area currently contains 6 lines. From left to right they are:

Unknown Project: Only two bolts thus far.

Extremely Tough Slab: 5.11d with a 5.13 extension (rumored).

Pins and Needles: 5.11a.

Pulp Friction: 5.10c.

Sand Surfin': 5.10b - currently a cracked hanger at bolt #2 and potentially very dangerous.

Self Abuse: 5.9 and a variation of Sand Surfin' that begins at it's third bolt and dodges off straight left to another line of bolts.

All of the climbs are generally well-protected slabs of varying difficulty proportional to the steepness of the wall. I recommend starting with Sand Surfin' (skip Self Abuse) and working your way left down the wall until you get shut down.


6 bolts to an anchor.

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