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> Mt Athelstan
Selective Cut
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British R
Avg: 1 from 1
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Routes in Mount Athelstan
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des Roches/Matwyuk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fire Ball WI5 M5 |
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Gnomon Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Keep your Heid T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a M5 Mod. Snow R |
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Kiss of Death (Sinnes Couloir) Steep Snow |
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Lillarete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Easy Snow |
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Moonraker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Raised By Bears T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Selective Cut T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Solstice Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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South Face, Randy Stoltmann Tower T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Standing Wave T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Stokeman Pillar T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 2500 ft (758 m), 20 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | D Brayshaw, A Port, M Spagnut 2001 |
| Page Views: | 637 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Drew Brayshaw on May 1, 2009 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Description
This route climbs the huge hanging corner system on the southwest face of the Gnomon (10 pitches), then finishes up Lillarete to the top. It is characterized by one good pitch (the first) and a bunch of lower-quality pitches with loose rock.
Approach the corner, which ends about 50m off the deck above a flared overhanging chimney. Climb excellent, polished cracks on the left wall of this chimney (5.9 crux) until able to step across into the chimney for the last few moves.
Continue up the hanging corner for 6 pitches or so. The corner itself is solid but accumulates debris fallen from above - the best climbing is on the slab about 5m right of the corner, out past the debris, but there is little pro there.
From near the top of the hanging corner, climb two piches up steeper corners with massive perched blocks, treading very carefully, to gain the summit of the Gnomon. Make a 15m rap off the Gnomon then walk back along the ridge behind to join Lillarete around p.10 of that route. Continue up that route to the top.
Approach the corner, which ends about 50m off the deck above a flared overhanging chimney. Climb excellent, polished cracks on the left wall of this chimney (5.9 crux) until able to step across into the chimney for the last few moves.
Continue up the hanging corner for 6 pitches or so. The corner itself is solid but accumulates debris fallen from above - the best climbing is on the slab about 5m right of the corner, out past the debris, but there is little pro there.
From near the top of the hanging corner, climb two piches up steeper corners with massive perched blocks, treading very carefully, to gain the summit of the Gnomon. Make a 15m rap off the Gnomon then walk back along the ridge behind to join Lillarete around p.10 of that route. Continue up that route to the top.
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