Crux is the first 20 feet, marginal gear on 5.6/5.7 climbing, don't fall through this section.
Begin 20 ft right of Scuttle. Climb the face to a small/thin right facing corner. Climb to an obvious ledge, traverse right to left facing corner and flakes.
Standard Seneca rack.
BETA PHOTO: Top of the crux about to start the traverse to bet...
May 7, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
There is an easy walk off to the climbers left- Rappelling from the big pine at the top of Scuttle is damaging the tree. When the tree goes, the ground above this climb is going to erode quickly.
|By Mark Thesing|
4 days ago
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I don't understand the R rating unless it has something to do with it not taking cams easily. I canít say if that is the case or not since I put the route up in 1984 (I think) and at the time I had very few cams and only used them when really needed. My memory of the climb is it protected very well with small to medium size stoppers and hexes. When I established the route I didnít fell protection was lacking at any point.
|By Seth Murphy|
6 hours ago
Fully agreed Mark. I just think that this climb might be more eye-opening for the new 5.7 climber then say, Green Wall, SJM, or West Pole, which readily accept fantastic protection when ever you feel the need to place it.
But again, I agree, probably not R, and probably not 5.7.