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 ADVANCED
Rodenstein
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abenteuerweg S 
Edelweisskante (kante = arete) S 
Keltenpfad S 
Kroderplatte S 
Neuer Zinnenweg S 
Pfeilerkante S 
Regenkante S 
Schlaifhausener Kante S 
Sekundant S 
Spanische Zeiten S 

Sekundant 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: 1983
Page Views: 110
Submitted By: Shawn Heath on Jul 8, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: Sekundant moves slightly left and right as you nav...

Description 

The start is a bit tough, so there's no shame in pre-clipping the high first bolt. As you can see by the spacing between bolts, the business is all concentrated between the first and the third bolt. Getting to the fourth bolt is also not very easy, but the difficulty really eases up after that. The climbs in this section are on very compact rock, which means that the pockets which abound at most of the other crags in the Frankenjura aren't quite as prevalent here. However, this climb has some cool, balancy moves on crimps, pockets and slopers. And the pockets aren't very friendly either, so try to resist the temptation to bury your fingers in them as deep as they'll go. Follow the 4 bolts to the anchor and sign the book at the top if you like.


Location 

Kind of in the middle of the big, slightly less than vertical wall. Immediately right of Neuer Zinnenweg.


Protection 

4 bolts + anchor



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