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Rubicon Formation
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Amphetamine Reptile T 
Jump Start T 
Jumpin' Jimmy Jones Jams Java at Josh T 
Pit Viper S 
Psychedelic Elvis T 
Rubicon T 
Seizure T 
Total Generic Package (aka Mr. Swing) T 
Unsorted Routes:

Seizure 

YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Kris Solem and Charles Crist, October 1988
Page Views: 705
Submitted By: Randy on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Brett early on the route.

Description 

Climb the initial crack on Rubicon, but continue up it past the horizontal about 10 feet or so. Head out left and up to a bolt, then head up and a bit left past 4 more bolts finishing at the rap anchor on top.

Steep, technical, well protected face with a real crux move between the 3rd and 4th bolts.

Note, the route line and bolts shown in the 1992 guide (and the crag photo on this site) are incorrect. The actual line lies further left and angles left more. 1st bolt is about 15+ feet above the horizontal.

Protection 

5 bolts and maybe a 2 to 3 inch piece to protect getting to 1st bolt (you can then clean it).


Photos of Seizure Slideshow Add Photo
Rubicon Formation
BETA PHOTO: Rubicon Formation

Comments on Seizure Add Comment
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By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Oct 23, 2003

Super technical face climbing. Easily TR'ed from the Rubicon anchors. I'll post an updated picture with the correct line and bolts drawn in.
By Kris Solem
From: Monrovia, CA
Jan 4, 2006

Mike, it's nice to see someone climbing on that route. A few notes about the FA:

We worked the line on TR, not wanting to bolt until we knew we could do it cleanly. The first 4 bolts went in ground up from hooks, and from the 4th I led to the top (big runout,) being unable to stop and drill along the way. I got some pro in the top of Rubicon and climbed back down and placed the 5th bolt right then at the insitance of my partner, Charlie Crist. A close look will reveal an empty hole somewhere right of the 3rd bolt. this was the original location but after getting the rope behind my feet for a couple falls I moved it. Shortly after the FA the route was chopped by someone who was extremely upset with me in a personal matter, and after things cooled off I placed the bolts which are there now.
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Nov 29, 2007

John Burcaw did the 2nd ascent of Seizure
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 29, 2007

"Shortly after the FA the route was chopped" local urban legend is that was the least of the problem. Kris runs a nice story along with putting up that route and what occurred thereafter.

Nice line, wish I could climb harder!
By Kris Solem
From: Monrovia, CA
Dec 1, 2008

" ATS wrote...John Burcaw did the 2nd ascent of Seizure... "

Yes. And after he did it he told me that he had done a number of easier 13's...

Erik Erikson did the third - I belayed him on it. He said he thought it was harder than Games Without Frontiers. I tend to agree, although height is a factor on both of these routes.

hmm.

edit: As I recall, Erik did not suggest upgrading Seizure, but rather downgrading Games...
By Drewsky
Dec 20, 2008

I used to think this one was impossible until I successfully thrutched my way up it on toprope. I would say the crux is certainly a touch harder than Games Without Frontiers; I was able to redpoint that one but the lead on Seizure remains elusive. Both routes require a peculiar combination of finesse and brute force. Great route!
By RTM
Mar 27, 2009

Cool line! I found one section to be too reachy for me though.