BETA PHOTO: Top half of Seibernetics from 20m north on the roa...
Climb up and left onto a small ledge past two drilled angles and into a right-leaning dihedral. The dihedral is more of a groove than a crack and difficult to protect without taking away all holds; the slab to the right is 10- and offers little but nubbins for feet to help. Climb up to even with the anchors and then traverse a flake-top to the excellent anchors (placed for both this climb and the slab TR of Seibernetics Direct, 10-). Rap or lower 80'.
Standard rack with a handful of QDs (two angles and a good double-bolt anchor). Bring small to medium passive pro as well as active.
Funny story on this one, I had just bought a "Soloist" self belay system, and this was the first route I tried it on. I carefully arranged the soloist at the base, then began my ascent. Twenty feet up I decided to place a piece, but discovered that I had left the rack at the base of the route! Fortunately I was able to downclimb back to the base without incident.
I had another misadventure on this route, George. We tried to sneak this in as the last route before the sun went down, but I found it difficult to see and place gear. Thinking I wouldn't need any med-large pro, I left all that on the ground. Now in the dark, I was about 15-18' above a placement and fumbled in some crappy nut and started to make the move up and over to the anchors when the nut popped back out. I yelled at my group of 5 people at the base (who were laughing, joking, and carrying on amongst themselves, not paying much attention to me who was sketching out) something like, "Hey you bitches! Pay attention--I'm poppin' gear out here!" Well, that was completely out of character for anyone who knows me so they abruptly shut up and took notice of my abscence of joy, which I had started with. To make this long story even longer, I took a deep breath, made it to the anchors and my fear started to evaporate. The moral of this story--a lack of a rack and friends who yack make the climber break his back.
One day after taking to many falls on Baby Blue we decided to end the day here, but I just wanted to go see Dan at Woodies. In return for making him "put in one more" he made me do it. My feet hurt so I decided to try it w/o my climb shoes. Somehow, with very creative steming I got to the top. The crux wasn't climbing, it was keeping my flip flops on.A. Everhart
This was my first trad climb in the desert, and one of my favorites. The first time I climbed it, I looked like I was geared up for a Zion bigwall (two full racks of borrowed cams, nuts, hexes, etc). On top of this, I hadn't noticed a large chunk of rubber missing from the toe of my right shoe, and couldn't figure out why my right foot wouldn'tt stick to anything. My wife had a nice rash on her left shoulder at the end of the day from some creative stemming. TCU's are helpful.
Try this one barefoot (on TR if you're a chicken)!!! Super friendly rock!
By Stan Pitcher From: SLC, UT Nov 27, 2007 rating: 5.85b16VI-15HVS 4c PG13
Anyone know what the route to the right of Sibernetics (with several bolts missing) is? A friend traversed out to the anchors from the top of Sibernetics so we could top-rope it. Very good sustained face climbing maybe 10+/11-?
By Justin Marlen From: Bozeman, MT Mar 22, 2009 rating: 5.8+5b16VI-15HVS 4c
The slab on the right is very helpful for stemming/smearing.
As of 7/17/09 there are 3 bolts for an anchor on this route (2 with chain links; 1 with a rappel ring). A BD # 3 cam is useful for the mid-section. The route isn't a continuous crack; it turns into a non-pro accepting seam is various spots throughout the climb - expect some distance between placements (not too run-out, just enough to keep it exciting). Stemming was the technique of choice for me.
The drilled pitons have been replaced with really sloppy bolts. Someone pulled the pins, which were bomber by the way, and replaced them with bolts smeared with sloppy, ugly, gray epoxy. No attempt was made to camo the epoxy job. FYI to whomever did this: you shouldn't need epoxy if you place expansion bolts correctly. A real A**hole move if you ask me!
First climb in the the desert. Also second or third 5.8 trad lead. This one was interesting! You've got to remind yourself that you're climbing a 5.8, b/c the pro can get sparse above that second bolt. A little sandy in areas as well. Worth trying, but a little intimidating for a 5.8 trad lead newb.
I had my first successful Independent trad lead on this route. Not so easy, but fun. The protection gear stay tight on the crack. The very last part gets a little tricky. You might need to leave a cam to change the rope direction with a long sling. My second climb, I was tired of a whole climbing day and couldn't get any further than the second bolt! So, do it fresh if you are a beginner like me, it's a lot of work, not a joke.
By Ian Colquhoun From: New Jersey Jun 24, 2014 rating: 5.8+5b16VI-15HVS 4c
My introduction to sandstone climbing. Lots of scummin in the corner. Wear a shirt with shoulders or your left one will be really scuffed at the end of this.
The direct line 5.10- is such a cool series of very very small nubs to stem on!!!