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New Hampshire
> WM: Waterville…
> Welch & Dickey…
> Dickey Ledge
> 01. S America Wall
Little Orphan Angry
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in 01. South America Wall
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Border Crossing T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Fern Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Flakes Alive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Good Book, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Horcrux, The S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Layback T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Little Orphan Angry T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Prophecy, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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South America Flake T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | Lee Hansche 9/6/16 |
| Page Views: | 879 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Glenn Cilley on Oct 14, 2011 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
A much better, Harder, and more interesting climb than it looks from the ground. The 20 feet of business climbing is serious and technical involving a great variety of tricks.
Start by scampering on to the large ledge below the bolted face. gather yourself and when you find your moment... Move up in to the steep section on good hold that get worse as you climb. As you find yourself looking up in to the crack from below, figure out your plan and get to the jams with difficulty. The crack is very sharp, I had to tape my hands and key fingers so that I could lose minimal flesh. The tough thinner crack leads to perfect hands and fists and eventually a tricky but not overly challenging exit on to the slab above. A 2 bolt anchor lies above.
This route can seep when things are wet but once I scrubbed it it stayed pretty dry most days.
Start by scampering on to the large ledge below the bolted face. gather yourself and when you find your moment... Move up in to the steep section on good hold that get worse as you climb. As you find yourself looking up in to the crack from below, figure out your plan and get to the jams with difficulty. The crack is very sharp, I had to tape my hands and key fingers so that I could lose minimal flesh. The tough thinner crack leads to perfect hands and fists and eventually a tricky but not overly challenging exit on to the slab above. A 2 bolt anchor lies above.
This route can seep when things are wet but once I scrubbed it it stayed pretty dry most days.
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