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 ADVANCED
Happy Hour Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Are We Not Men T,TR 
Are We Not Robots T,TR 
Baby Aliens T 
Bad Sneakers TR 
Bent Faith T 
Big Spit, The T 
Cheers aka Thrill of the Chaise T,TR 
Cruel Shoes TR 
Dementia T,TR 
Great Race, The T 
Grins T,TR 
Hands Off T 
I, Robot T,TR 
Last Call T,TR 
Last Laugh T,S,TR 
Malign T,TR 
Nightcap T,TR 
Rush Hour T,TR 
Seein' Double S 
Skid Row T 
Teetotaler T,S,TR 
Tipsey T,TR 
Twofers TR 
Twofers Bypass T,TR 
Twofers Gully T,TR 
Unknown Left Side T 

Seein' Double 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Chris Archer, Sarah Spaulding
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,453
Submitted By: Chris Archer on Jul 11, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Christa Cline starting up Seein' Double. There are...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route climbs the arete right of Dementia. Great position and terrific movement are marred by a slightly contrived start on the arete. The best opening climbs straight up the arete with your chest at the bolts. It starts with the left hand in the Dementia corner for the first move or two.

Start 10 feet right of the Dementia/Malign start. Climb past 2 bolts and angle up and left to the roof at the base of the Dementia corner. Climb straight up the arete. Going straight up at the last bolt is slopey 12c (desperate in summer). Cutting right for a move at the second to last bolt and then moving back left again past the last bolt lowers the grade to easy 5.11.

Protection 

8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. A #2 and/or #2.5 Friend may be useful to protect the moves to the 3rd bolt.


Photos of Seein' Double Slideshow Add Photo
Starting the arete.
Starting the arete.
Midway up the arete.
Midway up the arete.
About midway up.
About midway up.

Comments on Seein' Double Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 15, 2013
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 13, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Formerly a TR problem, now leadable. Does that make these retrobolts?
By Anonymous Coward
Jul 13, 2004

Seems like this one gets pretty close to Cheers.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 29, 2004

Gear Alert
Should have been left a TR problem. poor choice to bolt this one....

Thrill of the Chaise (AKA Cheers) is not much of a thrill anymore.

I should have had my wrench with me....
By Chris Archer
Jul 29, 2004

Darren, Cheers retrobolted an existing trad route. Why would you consider that a more valid route?
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 20, 2004

Routes like this make me think all climbing areas should be regulated as in Eldo or the Flatirons. Boulder Canyon is an uninspiring mess.
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 20, 2004

More regulated climbing? Oh yes, that's what we need.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 20, 2004

Chris, Thrill of the Chaise has only two bolts in it and didn't encroach on any other route. I didn't know if it was a trad route and I don't really care. It seems like your bolts retro it even more.... Now, while climbing Thrill, instead of only having those two bolts for the route, one could also clip all of your bolts. Maybe this is why you called it Seeing Double....
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 20, 2004

More regulated climbing is where we're headed. It's inevitable. Theres only going to be more people climbing and more people making impacts like this route. More regulation will happen.
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Aug 20, 2004

I would have to agree with the above comments. This route doubles the bolt count on any other route at the crag. The lower potion of the route is easily lead on trad gear 3ft to the left. The 3rd bolt can be clipped from Dementia. The climbing looks interesting, but it probably should not have been bolted with 8 bolts.
By Ray Snead
Aug 20, 2004

A historical note, since I was involved in the FA of Cheers with Rick Leitner and Kent Lugbill. We didn't knowingly retrobolt Thrill - we had no idea that the route had ever been done. We also did not drill the anchor bolts; these were apparently added later by local guides.

A good route worth the two bolts, I think.
By TBlom
Aug 21, 2004

I've always enjoyed "Thrill". I had no idea it was a trad route, but I usually augment the route with a few cams (it's pretty exciting if you only bring quickdraws). This new route seems a bit close to "Thrill", kind of like some of the grid bolting at Sport Park. I've noticed that most of the bolts at Happy Hour see very little traffic, as most people there choose to do the trad routes instead. I will most likely enjoy the route, all the same.
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 7, 2004

Beware any route that says 11a or 12c.
By TBlom
Jun 20, 2005

Tried to toprope this line and kept running into holds on "Thrill of the Chaise". I wonder how many ascents a year this route sees. Bolts 2.5 feet away diagonally from bolts on "Thrill" kind of just cluttered up a good trad/mixed area. Can't wait to lead Dementia with some bolts clipped though.
By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
Jun 26, 2007

I guess I have not been up here in a while.

Sorry Chris, I gotta say I think this is a poorly considered addition to the cliff.
By s.kimball
Jan 13, 2010

Don't be sorry, Steve, it's Bolted Canyon.
By Mark Roth
From: Boulder
Oct 7, 2010

Just climbed Dementia for the first time today and was wondering why all these bolts where within reach? Total squeeze job!
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Mar 15, 2013

This is fun, but it feels almost impossible in the 2nd to last bolt area. The old Rolofson guide calls this section 13a.