|The Big Time
|Some areas require a guide.|
This classic face climb is one of the more notorious highball problems at Hueco. The excellent moves, stellar rock, and memorable finish make this problem a must do for those solid at the grade. Despite the towering height of this problem, the crux is low, and the landing is excellent, so wait for a crowd, layer the pads thick, and go for it!
Begin matched in the large hueco 4 feet above the ground and 10 feet right of the NW arete of the Big Time Boulder. The crux is the first three moves, and is quite safe with good pads. Head up and left to an incut diagonal crimp and horizontal sloping crimp just above. Work the feet, then dyno for the obvious pocket/crimp in the middle of the face. From here, 6 or so more moves of V1/V2 crimping lead to a huge jug and easy mantle at the lip. Descend the SE ridge.
8 feet right of the NW arete of the Big Time Boulder, on the West face.
Many pads and a good spotter.
|By Joe Collins|
Dec 24, 2009
This is easily among the best highball boulder problems in N. America. The high moves are hard, but not desperate, and with well placed pads and spotters the fall is long but safe (I should know). Place your pads carefully because you land a lot farther back than you'd expect. Most people will find these reachy crimp moves up high are more in the V3 range than the V1/2 mentioned in the decription.
Now that the Mushroom Boulder is closed, this problem, Babyface, and Nobody Gets Out Of Here Alive are the three must-do North Mountain problems for any visitor to Hueco.
From: The Shrew, MA
Aug 29, 2010
According to Matt Wilder's Hueco Tanks guide, the FA of this problem was by Bob Murray on top-rope. It was later bouldered out by John Sherman.
|By Dan Brayack|
From: Marmet, WV
Oct 14, 2010
It was one of my life goals to do this problem - which I finally did! was so psyched!