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Sedona climbing area
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By lou
Apr 26, 2014
Whitney portal.....bony fingers

So, was hikin back from Epitaph and started droolin over the north facing gorgeous crag just south of the parkin area on Schnelby hill rd! Thinkin its the Temple of Diana? Anyone know of any climbs there? I heard of one named "Butterfly"... and beta?? anyone?? thanks...

cheers.... lou


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By J. Snyder
From Flagstaff, Arizona
Apr 28, 2014

You are correct, that is Temple of Diana. North facing wall of Coconino Sandstone. There are several routes referenced in some Toula guides from the past, put up by the same group of climbers. I hear that it is a jungle boogie but maybe worth it.


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By Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 28, 2014
wham bam hand jam. Wrapping up the final moves of Twist of Fate, Oak Creek Canyon. <br /> <br />photo: Blake McCord

J. Snyder wrote:
I hear that it is a jungle boogie but maybe worth it.

most likely choss


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By manuel rangel
From Tempe, Arizona
Apr 29, 2014

North facing sandstone = softer

Let me know when you go Lou! Love to come with.


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By Micah Kurtz
Apr 29, 2014

Can you explain why north facing sandstone is softer? I am curious. Its too bad because it looks incredible.


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By manuel rangel
From Tempe, Arizona
Apr 29, 2014

Most north facing walls of Sedona's various sandstones have felt softer, literally. I think it is the sun that dries the south faces and hardens them. Very unscientific but I have climbed there a lot.

Still, that may remain to be seen on this crag since I haven't been.


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By Paul Davidson
Apr 30, 2014

First climb there (that I'm aware of anyway) was by myself and Tim Coates, it's on the left side, obvious crack over some roofs, 2-3 pitches. We called it 5.10/10+ I believe we just named it what we named the formation.
A later ascent thought they had bagged the first and rated it 5.11. Given who that party was and their love of the wide, I'd suspect 5.11 is not a bad rating. I seem to recall there being a very tough bit of overhanging, off wide on the 3rd pitch maybe ? 2nd? TC led it. I led the odds so it must be 2nd or 4th (if there were 4 pitches.)

My recollection is the rock was as good as any Coconino, which tends to be softer than the red. Most N faces of everything tend to be more vegetated, less scrubbed, etc... It was a no fall first pitch as it started right up above a large agave and you had to pull a roof, I think without gear. With modern big gear, pbbly not an issue. Moves weren't that bad on the lead but I seem to recall Tim thinking they were hard. That of course is all about the FA lead focus making things different.

I heard later the middle routes, which look very good, were done but I forget by who. Lawson maybe? Those were also in the 10/10+ range and some 5.11 I believe. They are really nice looking climbs. More in the hand range.
I don't know anymore about those or the descents. But I think they are in Cheap Way...

I don't recall the hump up there as being any worse than many Sedona tromps.
I think we walked up, did the climb and walked down. Unlike many Sedona FAs which require a day just finding your walk in.

It's a beautiful piece of rock. I've always been surprised it hasn't seen more action. Not exactly hidden away.

BTW - As I recall, our descent was off to the east of the climb (climber's left) and down trees and ledges. I seem to recall rapping off some pretty small scrubs. Suggest taking anchors and fixing a better descent.
I don't think we'd want to see anchors right down the climb.
The fact that later ascents can think they are doing FAs is the type of climbs we liked to put up. Let others have the same thrill.
But a safe bolted rap line off to the side, no problem.


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By lou
May 2, 2014
Whitney portal.....bony fingers

Great beta Paul! Thanks much! I hear ya; nothing wrong with gear anchors! Maybe a trim on that agave! hehheh It is a gorgeous piece of rock!

Hey Manny! Ditto bro; always cool to share a rope with ya!


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