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Security Risk 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Scott Woodruff and Dan Hare, 1978
Page Views: 4,121
Submitted By: George Bell on Aug 11, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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Description 

Locate the major crack system more or less in the middle of the crag. This crack system starts about 40' off the ground, and the first problem is getting to it. The standard start shown in Rossiter is difficult (10d) and hard to protect, somewhat out of character with the fun and well protected nature of the rest of the route. I recommend avoiding it.

P1. The easiest start is a 5.7 crack which is a few feet right of the line of the upper chimney. Climb this short pitch to a nice ledge at the base of the upper crack system, or continue and do the route as one long pitch. The original start is farther left and follows a left-facing overhanging dihedral in an alcove. A third start is located a few right of the 5.7 crack. Climb a shallow, left facing corner to a roof, step right (crux) and then straight up to the belay. This Photo shows all three starts.

P2: Launch forth straight up the double cracks. You will find perfect cracks and some wild overhanging moves. This 120' pitch is mostly stemming and hand jamming, and ends near the top of the crag. Scramble up and then descend west between Upper and Lower Security Risk.

Protection 

Standard rack to 3.5"


Photos of Security Risk Slideshow Add Photo
Stemming and backstepping the corner/chimney that ...
Stemming and backstepping the corner/chimney that ...
Todd has just finished the second crux on the righ...
Todd has just finished the second crux on the righ...
Todd beginning the second pitch.
Todd beginning the second pitch.
The route climbs the crack system right of the tre...
The route climbs the crack system right of the tre...
The crux on the original start.
The crux on the original start.
At the top of the 10a variation to the first pitch...
At the top of the 10a variation to the first pitch...
Squeezing over the roof.
Squeezing over the roof.
Placing a bomber C4 0.3.
Placing a bomber C4 0.3.
At one of the cruxes. This is a good rest. The jam...
At one of the cruxes. This is a good rest. The jam...
Starting up the 2nd pitch. Pay no attention to tha...
Starting up the 2nd pitch. Pay no attention to tha...
The original and rarely done start climbs this ste...
The original and rarely done start climbs this ste...
The twin crack crux on the 2nd pitch.
The twin crack crux on the 2nd pitch.
5.10d start. There's a no hands rest here. My phot...
5.10d start. There's a no hands rest here. My phot...
Jamming away near the top....
Jamming away near the top....

Comments on Security Risk Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 6, 2014
By Rich Farnham
Sep 23, 2002

I combined the first and second pitch easily with a 60m rope, for a very enjoyable long pitch. I stayed near the 5.7 start, but actually went slightly right of the 5.7 section, climbing through the bulge via the 5.9-ish squeeze slot. Granted it doesn't sound very appealling, but it was a short section, well protected with a standard rack, and quite fun. Combining the pitches is highly recommended, but the average 5.8/5.9 leader will want to double up in the 1-3 Camalot sizes to do it.
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jan 6, 2003

10a start: This is the shallow left facing corner and thin crack right of the regular start and just right of the 5.7 variation. The Rolofson guide calls this 10a, and that's about right. The start, up to a ledge, is harder than it looks. The step right at a ceiling is a little exciting, with gear up high and left, and about 5.9. You probably don't want to combine this start with the second pitch due to rope drag over the ceiling. You would need a really long sling to prevent drag, and that would make the step right a little too exciting.
By shad O'Neel
May 13, 2003

Damn, what a fine crack this is. For me, the balancy 5.7 section off the deck was the scariest, it's a wee dirty and funky. Once above the ledge the stemming is fabulous then the jamming goes on for a longish time. I was glad I had 2 #1 Camalots, and a #3.5. Several rests provide opportunity to de-pump your left arm.
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 12, 2004

Climbed this for the third time recently, I have now done all 3 start variations. The 10a start is accurately described by Ivan. The upper pitch is shorter than I remembered, maybe only 120' or so. The jams also seemed less bomber (flared) than I remembered, and it helps to have big hands on this pitch. The crux on this pitch seemed to me at the small 1' overhang (between the cracks). This pitch will uncover any flaws in your crack climbing and stemming technique!
By Jonathan White
From: littleton, co
Sep 9, 2007
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

The original start is great and I disagree with the author on avoiding it. It protects well with smaller cams and make the the whole climb constantly challenging. Climb the left-facing dihedral to the left of the 5.7 start. This makes the first pitch 10d.
By Kat A
From: Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Oct 7, 2007

There is a nice variety of techniques to apply on this route - jamming, stemming, and thin balancey moves. The 5.10a variation on P1 is great, though I thought the pro was lacking near the upper section. Managed to place a purple TCU in the little hand-sized flake at the crux, but I wouldn't want to fall onto that piece.
By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 21, 2007

Why would you skip the true first pitch at 10d? Yeah the gear is a little strange, but you get two bomber nuts to begin with and two small cams before the crux move. The first pitch is tough and well worth climbing.

However, it is tough to do as one long pitch this way due to drag.
By Paul Hunnicutt
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 9, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

One of the best cracks in BoCan IMHO. Get pro in on the 10d start early as it is hard to place through the crux section and you are right above the deck. Awesome varied crack on the second pitch. No gimme for a 5.9 leader. You might want a double set if cams on this one to sew it up or bring a few hexes. A #4 can be placed, but not required. It varies a lot though so a single set of nuts, cams will suffice if confident on 5.9 crack.
By Chris Archer
Nov 24, 2008
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13

Terrific route, which is the namesake of the two Security Risk formations. It seems odd to grade the route according to the easier and less interesting variations and to describe the variations as the route. The route starts on the 10+ corner. It is not 5.9. IMO the route should be listed and graded as originally climbed, with the easier variations being noted as options. Good gear is available, but strenuous to place on the original first pitch The route gets another star if you run both pitches together, which is quite straightforward to do without rope drag.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 24, 2008
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

The 10d way is the route as it was, and is the better way anyway. A good line worth doing.
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Nov 11, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Great climb. One of the best of the trad climbs in the Boulder Canyon area (Left Side - WWW, Where Eagles Dare - Blob Rock, Cosmosis - Bell Buttress, and Security Risk). The 10d start is protectable for any competent trad climber and should not be avoided unless 5.9 is your limit. I had gear above my head the entire way. There's even a fixed nut directly below the crux. Great stemming options throughout (no hands rest below the crux, though strenuous on the legs).
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Sep 22, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Why would you climb the original start, call it 10d in your comment, then rate it 9+?
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 21, 2011

I submit that *many* multi-pitch routes are not done today following the exact line of the first ascent. Thus, the argument that "the original line is the way to go, because the FA team went that way", holds no water for me. I still recommend avoiding the original start, even if I may be in the minority.
By Ketchup
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 6, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

It seems unlikely that the route was named Security Risk for the locker jams after the first pitch. The overhang is worth doing and only 10c in the Rossiter topo. The variations are cool too.